subirimagenesIntroduced in 1990, the 14060 proved to be Rolex’s initial step into modern watch construction while still staying true to its vintage roots. The sapphire crystal, 300 meter water resistance, and triplock crown all showcase modern innovation and toughness, while the uncluttered 2-line dials maintain the old school feel. Rolex replaced the caliber 1520 found in the 5513 with the updated and higher beat caliber 3000. All of these features are housed in the perfectly proportioned classic Submariner case (with lug holes, of course). It also shares the lightweight and comfortable 93150 bracelet, end links, and clasp of its predecessor. The no-date dial is more balanced and clean than its “date” counterpart; the lack of the trademark Rolex cyclops also makes it more understated and less conspicuous. Early 14060 models had tritium, which adds to the vintage feel — some of these examples should be showing some patina by now. Did I mention the lug holes? Man, we love lug holes.
In 1999, Rolex transitioned from the 14060 to the upgraded 14060m. The 14060m had the same external features as its predecessor but with the updated caliber 3130. This new caliber was improved with a Breguet overcoil, as well as a full balance bridge which offered a greater degree of stability and shock resistance. If you’re looking for that extra bit of toughness and resiliency, you can’t go wrong with the 14060m. The fit and finish of the new references with their solid link bracelets and polished cases are superb, but we still enjoy the brushed 904L steel of the 14060 and the 14060m — it just seems to handle scratches and dings better. At around $4,000 depending on condition and accessories, it’s certainly a bargain when it comes to Rolex watches.
Many would say that Rolex lost something with the newer case of the SubC and we would agree. Don’t be fooled, the new references are great, but the classic size, proportions, and feel just aren’t there anymore. In 2007, Rolex changed the 2-line text to 4, adding the COSC labeling, and then later in 2012, moved away from the drilled-through lugs, which effectively signaled the end of the “classic” Rolex Submariner.
