Watch Movements

[george_]

Watch movements come in various shapes to fit different case styles and are measured in lignes or in millimetres. Each specific watch movement is called a caliber. The movement parts are separated into two main categories: those belonging to the ébauches and those belonging to the assortments. An ébauche is typically understood to mean a ‘raw’ or unassembled, unfinished movement, including the major structural components (plates, bridges) and sometimes parts of the wheel train and other moving parts.


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Many watch companies purchase complete movements from a major supplier such as ETA or Lemania.  Some watch companies purchase an ébauche from a major supplier, polish and decorate the parts (i.e. finish the parts), and assemble it with standard parts to create a higher quality-controlled movement than the stock ready-made movement. Other companies purchase ébauches, finish them to a high standard, modify parts of the movement, and add custom components like an upgraded escapement assembly - to create what might be called a custom version of that movement. However, several top brands only use movements that are developed and manufactured within their own company. These are called in-house movements.

[george_]

Most movements remain hidden from view, protected inside their case. Some, though, can be admired through a sapphire crystal case back that reveals this complex geometry of wheels, bridges and mechanisms. These tiny, tiered parts are decorated and finished with no less of an attention to detail than that devoted to the watch's exterior. Even when the movement will not be visible through the case back, a Fine Watch movement will always be richly decorated and finished to the highest degree of beauty and perfection.
In a Fine Watch movement, the least trace of machining is erased from the surface of each part. Every last wheel, the smallest pinion is smoothed, polished, circular-grained or countersunk. Many different techniques are employed, beginning with polishing each surface and edge.

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Often the surfaces of larger parts, such as bridges, are decorated with evenly-spaced, parallel lines, either straight or circular, achieved using a boxwood pad and a lathe. Some parts are chased or engraved by hand. Some of the popular techniques used to polish, finish and decorate watch movements are:
Côtes or vagues de Genève: A decoration of undulating lines, like waves, frequently used to embellish superior quality movements.
Stippling: A decorative finish of overlapping circles in a close-set concentric pattern that gives a distinctive textured effect.
Engraving: The art of forming patterns either by hand, using a graver, or by machine such as a rose engine.
Geneva Stripes: A form of decoration in higher grade watch movements which look like stripes on the movement plates.
Blued Screws: Traditionally, high quality movements were fitted with screws which were artificially blued, more for decoration than function.
Vrac: This is the electroplating of the movement to provide some form of protection rather as a finish or decoration.
Flat matte finish: As the name implies, this finish is matte and looks unfinished. This is the most basic of finish available.
Flat brush finish: It is achieved by brushing the finish in a single direction.
Adoucie: This is a form of polishing that is either linear or circular and is achieved with the use of abrasive paper.
Colimaçonnéealso known as Colimaçon (snalling or spiralling): Snalling is a decorative finish which takes the form of curved lines originating from a common centre.
Colimaçonnée diamant: This is the same as Colimaçonnée and is achieved with the use of a rotating diamond cutting tool which imparts brilliance on the cut surface.
Colimaçonnée papier: Another form of snalling but with the use of abrasive paper. Also known as Soleil (sun) or Soleillées (sun beams), this is achieved by rotating the abrasive paper on the rotating parts to be polished. The strokes can originate from a common centre or be at a tangent to the edge.
Perlée: Also known as Perlage (machine turned), this is the most common form of decoration. It looks like swirls of overlapping circles. The circular grains are achieved by applying overlapping circular patterns by rubbing a pegwood with emery paste.
Jewels: Higher grade watches have traditionally used a jewelled movement. These jewels (originally natural ruby, now synthetic ruby) are functional - they are used as the bearings for the wheel trains and in high wear parts such as the escape lever and impulse jewel.
Skeleton watch: It is a timepiece in which all of the moving parts are visible through either the front of the watch or the back. True skeletonisation also includes the trimming away of any non-essential metal on the bridge, plate, wheel train or any other mechanical part of the watch, leaving only a minimalist 'bare' skeleton of the movement required for functionality. Often, the remaining thinned movement is decorated with engraving.

[george_]

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that's a very nice watch and one of my personal favorit chrono movement's. It's one of the oldest chrono movements used for WW's but was in use for PW's too.
The base caliber was the 15'' ch. Later made "transformations" are the 15 TL, 15 CHT and some special movements with "reduced" chrono functions (stop second or stop second with zero setting, or only center second..).
The 4 digit cal. numbers are the later "names" of the same movements.
Omega called this movement 33.3 CHRO and the same did Tissot.
It's a very classic Lemania construction and a real "workhorse"

[Petros1]

Αναλυτικότατο,και κατατοπιστικό...Όρεξη να χει κανείς να διαβάζει... Μπράβο σου.

[george_]

Αναλυτικότατο,και κατατοπιστικό...Όρεξη να χει κανείς να διαβάζει... Μπράβο σου.

[nicolasg]

Εγώ στην αρχή νόμιζα ότι ήταν spam ολα αυτά, μετά είδα τον αποστολέα 

[Petros1]

Εγώ στην αρχή νόμιζα ότι ήταν spam ολα αυτά, μετά είδα τον αποστολέα 

Και τότε βεβαιώθηκες ε...?