ANGELUS

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Established in 1891 by the brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz in Le Locle, Switzerland, Angelus has been one of the most influential horological manufactures of the last century. Connoisseurs of high-end watchmaking have universally hailed Angelus’ pioneering, in-house developed movements and timepieces, which continue to be coveted by collectors all over the world.

After lying dormant for more than 30 years, Angelus has now been revived by Manufacture La Joux Perret, which has spent four years developing the next generation of visionary timepieces. The Angelus’ manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds is just a stone’s throw from where the Stolz brothers established their original manufacture.

Over the past century, Angelus forged a fine reputation for creating exceptional chronograph and multi-complication wristwatches, multi-display travel clocks with long power reserves, and alarm watches. The brand marked several firsts along the way, including the Chronodato (1942), which was the first series wristwatch chronograph with calendar.

The Chrono-Datoluxe (1948) featured the very first big date in a chronograph wristwatch; it was also the first series chronograph wristwatch with a digital calendar – years before such a display became a standard in watchmaking.

The Datalarm (1956) was the first wristwatch ever featuring both alarm and date function, while the cult timepiece the Tinkler (1958) was both the first automatic repeater wristwatch and also the first fully waterproof repeater wristwatch.

The high precision of Angelus timepieces is evidenced by a series of first -class results at observatory timing competitions, while the superb craftsmanship of Angelus watches has been recognized by awards from international exhibitions including Paris (1902), Lille (1902), Liège (1905), Milan (1906), Bern (1914) and Philadelphia (1926).

Like many other prestigious Swiss watch brands, Angelus became the victim to the quartz crisis in the 1970s and production halted. However, in 2011 Angelus was revived by the well -known and highly innovative mechanical movement specialist Manufacture La Joux-Perret SA in La Chaux-de-Fonds and its CEO Frédéric Wenger and Head of Innovation Dr Sébastien Chaulmontet. Angelus now has at its disposal a skilled and enthusiastic team committed to putting Angelus back on the pedestal of high-end watchmaking.

Still enjoying the creative freedom afforded by having its own manufacture and using the brand’s rich history as a guiding principle and source of inspiration, Angelus has spent over four years developing the next generation of Angelus timepieces, which uphold the brand’s reputation for horological ingenuity.

Featuring complications from classic watchmaking, ultramodern materials crafted using cutting-edge techniques, highly visible movements and contemporary design cues, these innovative timepieces push the boundaries of contemporary watchmaking, while remaining true to the haute horlogerie traditions of the brand.

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The Angelus manufacture

Angelus is owned by Manufacture La Joux-Perret SA, which operates out of its own manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of fine Swiss watchmaking. The new Angelus base is a stone’s throw from where the Stolz brothers set up their first watchmaking manufacture in 1891.

Today’s Angelus manufacture is fully equipped with a highly-skilled workforce allowing Angelus to design, produce, finish, assemble, regulate and test all of its movements and timepieces in-house. For non-movement components, e.g. cases, dials and hands, Angelus partners with the best suppliers in the Swiss luxury watch industry, many of which are close neighbours.

Like an Angelus timepiece, the Angelus manufacture blends the very best of classic haute horlogerie with ultra-modern watchmaking production methods. While the Angelus manufacture employs a number of skilled artisans who use time-honored techniques and tools to delicately craft and finish components using traditional methods, it also boasts a state-of-the-art production facility featuring semi-automatic machines – lathes, milling machines, drills, pointing and centering tools – and CNC machines programmed and operated by experienced technicians, engineers and watchmakers.

The seeds of a new Angelus movement and timepiece are typically sewn in the bureau technique, where the latest Computer-Assisted Design (CAD) programs are used by Angelus movement constructors to design and model the latest concepts and ideas.

The manufacture embraces horological tradition by working classic materials such as precious metals, steel and brass, as well as the challenges and possibilities presented by modern materials, e.g. maraging steel, copper alloys, aluminum, titanium and carbon fiber. Where necessary, components and materials undergo thermic treatments – tempering and annealing, for example – to make them more resistant.

The skilled craftsmen of the Angelus decoration department provide an inimitable, personal touch to Angelus creations by adorning plates and bridges with artful, traditional finishes including Côtes de Genève, circular graining, snailing and sunray guilloches using traditional watchmaking tools guided by experienced human hands. Spectacular modern finishes can also be achieved using the latest technology such as laser engraving.

Hours are dedicated to beveling and polishing pieces by hand. Such fine-finishing draws the very best qualities from the materials, with the resulting plays of light and glinting reflections highlighting their beauty. The steady and dexterous hands of the watchmakers then painstakingly assemble the final timepiece.

Meticulous quality control checks are performed during each process, between operations and, of course, on the completion of the finished timepiece, using a variety of measuring equipment – digital sensors, microscopes, binoculars, photo-cameras, gauges and projectors – to conduct a battery of checks including precision, torque, strength and water resistance tests. Throughout, the Angelus manufacture team strives to continually innovate and is always researching and investigating new techniques, as well as keeping abreast of developments in other fields of fine mechanics.

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Angelus Chronology – Key Dates

1891: Brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz – distinguished watchmakers and former students of Henri Sandoz who was director of the Tavannes Watch Company – establish their Angelus watchmaking manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, a city world renowned for high -end watchmaking. They began with just a room on the Rue du Marais, modest beginnings for what would become an important brand.

1914-1918: The First World War proves an obstacle to the development of Angelus, but does not prevent it from creating a repeater timepiece for blind people that is offered to returning soldiers who have suffered facial injuries. This gesture earns the Stolz brothers a letter of thanks from French army general Marshal Joffre.

1930: Angelus starts selling the smallest – only 32 mm x 21 mm (10.5 lines) – 8-day movement in the world with an excellent precision of +/- 1 minute per week. This movement actually has a potential power reserve of 10 days. It remains the smallest 8-day movement in the world to this day.

1935: Angelus begins making two-pusher chronographs based on 29.33 mm and 33.84 mm (13 and 15 lines) manufacture movements with 30- or 45-minute counters. The first two-pusher chronographs appeared in 1933 and were made by Breitling; however the complication only becomes widespread after 1935, with Angelus and Universal prominent exponents of this type of chronograph.

1936: Angelus launches caliber SF240, the smallest 8-day alarm movement then available. This movement is also produced without alarm function.

1937: Angelus launches the Foursome compact table clock, featuring an 8-day power reserve, automatic calendar, barometer, and thermometer.

1939: Angelus 8-day caliber SF240 is chosen by Panerai to equip watches for the Italian navy. Panerai watches equipped with the Angelus caliber SF240 can be recognized by the small seconds at 9 o’clock. This now iconic Panerai design element can be directly attributed to the Angelus caliber SF240.

1942: Angelus causes a sensation in the world of watchmaking by launching the world’s first series chronograph with calendar. Initially christened Chronodate, then Chronodato from 1943 onwards, this remarkable chronograph is equipped with the 32.8 mm (14 lines) calibre SF217, which was derived from the calibre SF215 launched earlier in the year – and features 17 or 19 jewels and a 45-minute counter.



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Chronodato’s date is indicated by a central hand pointing to a chapter ring on the periphery of the dial; day and month are respectively displayed in windows at 6 and 12 o’clock. The Chronodato rapidly becomes Angelus’ top selling watch and goes on to become an icon of Swiss-made chronographs. With the exception of a few non-production models made by Patek Philippe featuring a calendar in 1937 and perpetual calendar in 1941, this was the first time that the date appeared on a production chronograph wristwatch.

1943: Panerai equips its legendary Radiomir Mare Nostrum chronograph with Angelus’ calibre SF215, however, the watch stays in the prototype stage.

1945 : Angelus creates its most sophisticated travel instrument yet, the Sixome, featuring an 8-day power reserve, automatic calendar, barometer and thermometer – like the Foursome – in addition to a hygrometer and a compass.

1948: Angelus launches a new chronograph movement, the 27 mm (12 lines) calibre SF250 with 30-minute counter. This development paves the way for the brand’s masterpiece, the ChronoDatoluxe. The Chrono-Datoluxe is the world’s first series chronograph featuring a digital date display. It was at the same time the first wristwatch chronograph with a big date – two Arabic numerals, each one on a discrete, coaxial disc, displayed in a window at 12 o’clock, with the day also displayed in a window next to the date.

A moonphase at 6 o’clock completes the indications. Angelus also made non-chronograph calendar watches both with moonphase (the Datoluxe) and without (the Dato 12) derived from the Chrono-Datoluxe calendar complication.

1956: Angelus launches the Datalarm, the first wristwatch ever featuring both alarm and date function, the latter displayed in a window at 3 o’clock. The Datalarm comes in different versions, including a world-timer with 24-hour chapter ring on the bezel and, inside on the dial, the names of 24 cities, each representing a world time zone.

1958: Angelus launches an extraordinary wristwatch, the Tinkler, which is both the first ever automatic repeater wristwatch as well as the first waterproof repeater wristwatch. The Tinkler’s repeater mechanism – activated by a ‘pump’ pusher similar to that used in Angelus’ waterproof chronographs – strikes on the hour and quarter hours.

The Tinkler is so ahead of its time that only approximately 100 pieces were produced. This rarity means that the Tinkler becomes highly sought -after by watch collectors years later.

2015: Now owned by Manufacture La Joux-Perret SA, Angelus unveils its re-launch collection – the U10 Tourbillon Lumière – at Baselworld fair.

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ANGELUS X MASSENA LAB MEDICAL CHRONOGRAPH LIMITED EDITION

By launching the Angelus x Massena LAB Medical Chronograph from the new La Fabrique collection, the iconic Swiss watch brand revives its legacy in manufacturing doctor’s watches.

Created in collaboration with Massena LAB, the Chronographe Médical is limited to 99 pieces. Endowed with dual pulsometer and asthmometer scales, it is a true tool watch for medical professionals. This model also marks the beginning of a new Angelus collection named La Fabrique created specifically for tribute editions.

In the 1960s, Angelus launched a wrist-worn hand-wound chronograph for doctors and medical professionals. Its unique style dial featured a dual scale for a pulsometer to measure the patient’s pulse and an asthmometer to record the respiratory rate. This doctor’s watch has been brought up to date by Angelus to appeal to modern tastes.

Movement
The Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB houses the Angelus manual winding A5000 movement with integrated mono-pusher chronograph.

It has a small seconds dial at 9 o’clock. The chronograph seconds hand placed on the centre can be used for calculating heart rate or respiratory rate in reference with the respective scales. Equipped with a single mushroom-shaped pusher at 2 o’clock and operating at a rate of 3 Hz, the Angelus A5000 chronograph calibre incorporates a column wheel and a horizontal clutch.

The case is made from 316L steel. Lastly, the case diameter has been increased to 39mm to make the pulsometer scale more legible.

Pulsometer
The pulsometer function indicates a patient’s heart rate without the need for calculations. On the Angelus Chronographe Médical, the pulsometer scale between 1 and 3 o’clock is based on 10 beats. As soon as the chronograph is started, simply count 10 beats, then stop the mechanism. When compared against the pulsometer scale, the chronograph hand will then indicate the number of beats per minute.

Asthmometer
The asthmometer displays the respiratory rate per minute. The Chronographe Médical works on the basis of five breaths. After starting the chronograph, count five breaths before pressing the pusher again. The chronograph hand will indicate the number of breaths per minute on the inner scale graduated from 40 to 10.

Dual Pulsometer and Asthmometer Scale
The pulsometer scale of this watch has a very specific colour code: green, black, or red, corresponding to the severity of the reading obtained during the examination. By contrast, the respiratory scale is red and is nestled inside the minute circle. These two scales are positioned so as to make them as legible and clear as possible. Before each scale, the requirement for taking vital signs is listed (base 10 pulsations and base 5 respirations).

The font used is particularly wide and contrasting. Two large arrows accentuate these scales, one of which, curved and crossing the minute circle, is completely unique. Lastly, the silvered opaline dial and Dauphine hands with luminescent lines are identical to the model that inspired this timepiece. The dial has 12 appliqué hour markers: six indexes and six Arabic numerals.

To give more importance for the pulsometer and asthmometer scales, the minute track and the hour markers have been pushed in towards its centre.

The watch comes fitted on a full-grain golden brown calfskin Novonappa strap.

Limited to 99 pieces, Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB will be available through the network of authorised Angelus retailers. The watch will also be available directly from MassenaLAB.com.

Technical details
Model: Angelus x Massena LAB Medical Chronograph
Reference 0CHAS.A01A.V010S
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, one-minute monopusher chronograph, pulsometer and asthmometer scales

Movement
Calibre A5000, hand-wound mechanical
Jewels: 23
Diameter: 29.40 mm
Thickness: 4.20 mm
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph

Finishes
Mainplate: circular-grained, palladium-finish
Bridges: Côtes de Genève, palladium-finish and chamfered
Wheels: circular-grained, 2N golden
Screws: polished

Dial
Domed, silvered opaline
Medical decals in black, green and red
Black minute circles
Rhodium-finish appliqué indexes and Arabic numerals
Hour markers in green-emitting Super-LumiNova

Case
Material: Stainless steel
Diameter: 39.00 mm
Thickness: 9.22 mm
Crystal: Box sapphire, anti-reflective coating on both sides
Case back: Flat sapphire, anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 30 metres/3 ATM

Strap
Golden brown Novonappa calfskin, ecru stitching, hand-stitched
Pin buckle, stainless steel

Edition
Limited edition of 99 timepieces

Price
Swiss retail price: CHF 19,900 incl tax (subject to change)
US retail price: USD 19,900 (subject to change)

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Angelus repetition 
5 minute repeater

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[vc222]

άλλη μια ανάσταση νεκρών . . . 

[Alexandros00]

άλλη μια ανάσταση νεκρών . . . 

Με τέτοια ιστορία από πίσω...χαλάλι τούς.

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 Revolving meteo weather station

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[mic]

Είχε πολύ μεράκι αυτή η εταιρεία.

[Alexandros00]

Είχε πολύ μεράκι αυτή η εταιρεία.

The Chrono-Datoluxe (1948) featured the very first big date in a chronograph wristwatch; it was also the first series chronograph wristwatch with a digital calendar – years before such a display became a standard in watchmaking.

Φοβερο τι έχει επιτύχει

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[mic]

Εδώ φαίνεται ένα Chrono Datoluxe — 1955. Το ίδιο στην ουσία με του 1948. Πανέμορφο ρολόι!

https://www.worldoftime.de/Watches/angelus/chrono-datoluxe-11003

[Alexandros00]

Εδώ φαίνεται ένα Chrono Datoluxe — 1955. Το ίδιο στην ουσία με του 1948. Πανέμορφο ρολόι!

https://www.worldoftime.de/Watches/angelus/chrono-datoluxe-11003

Σου τρέχει σαλακι ...

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