Άγνωστες ιστορίες ρολογιών.

[Spyoly]

Αυτό φίλε δεν το είχα ξαναδεί
Ανεβάζεις ψηλά τον πήχη …..μπράβο 👏👏👏👏👏

[Giorgos_I]

[Alexandros00]

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER
ST 376.0822

The Holy Grail

Ο Chuck Maddox ,ειναι από τους πλέον γνωστούς συλλέκτες ρολογιών Omega και δη ,Speedmaster.
Σύμφωνα με τα λεγόμενα του, το πιο δύσκολο Omega για να το ανακαλύψει και συνάμα να τo αποκτήσει ήταν το ref: st 376.0822.
Χρόνια σε αναζήτηση, η ανακάλυψη του από,δέχτηκε τόσο δύσκολη όπου του έδωσε το παρατσούκλι, The Holy Grail,  από το μύθο του Βασιλιά Αρθούρου.
Ενα πανέμορφο Speedmaster , ο συνδυασμός της κασας του moonwatch με τη θρυλική Lemania 5100 ,ακόμα και σήμερα μας αφήνει άναυδους.
Η παραγωγή του κράτησε μονο για ενα έτος,
1987- 1988.
Εξαιρετικά δυσεύρετο, όπως είναι λογικό η τιμή του σήμερα ακουμπάει, εχεδον τα 20.000 ευρώ.

OMEGA  Speedmaster ST 376.0822
Original Product Sheet (1986)

Main features:

Ref. ST 376.0822 (PIC 3341 B new code since 1988)
Self-winding caliber 1045
Day-date, with a 24 hours subdial
12-hours chronograph
Moonwatch-like case (thicker to accommodate the automatic movement) featuring crown and pushers integration
Large dial aperture and legibility, with a glass ring showing the 1/5th seconds scale


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[george_]

Έχουν περάσει 15 χρόνια που πέθανε

[Alexandros00]

Έχουν περάσει 15 χρόνια που πέθανε

Και;
Εγω την ιστορία για το ρολόι ήθελα να αναφέρω.

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[george_]

Για την ιστορία 

[Alexandros00]

Lemania

Founded in 1884, Lemania produced ébauches movements that were primarily used by other watchmakers. From the beginning, the brand specialized in chronographs, and its know-how with the complication led to some legendary chronograph movements, including the Caliber 1873, used in the original Omega Speedmaster and the simple Caliber 5100 used in a number of watches from Sinn, Tutima, Porsche Design and Omega that became a mainstay in some militaries. Though Lemania mainly focused on building movements, there were a number of Lemania-branded watches produced during the 20th century.

Like many forgotten watch brands from the previous century, Lemania fell with the rise of the quartz watch in the 1970s. The brand was resurrected in the ’80s as Nouvelle Lemania, then acquired by Swatch Group in 1999 along with Breguet. Today the Lemania name is no longer in use, but the company still makes calibers for Breguet and Swatch Group. Lemanias, like many of their tool watch contemporaries from the 20th century, are in vogue with collectors today. While some time-only models can go for under $1,000, chronographs, especially in good shape, will usually set you back considerably more.

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[george_]

Μια χαρά

[Alexandros00]

Μια χαρά

Ψάχνω να βρω κάτι μοντέλα της Lemania με παρατσούκλια.  Αύριο νομίζω θα τα ποσταρω.

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[george_]

Ωραία

[Alexandros00]

The Birth of Credor


In 1974, amidst the booming demand for all things quartz, Seiko launched a new line of elegant, precious metal offerings featuring its pioneering technology. Christened “Credor” from the French Crete d’Or (“The Ultimate of the Gold”), the catalog was strictly limited to dress watches.

While the brand continued to evolve, it wasn’t until 1998, with the unveiling of the 40 mm, stainless steel “Phoenix” sports chronograph, that Credor truly came into its own. Featuring the in-house calibre 6S78 (at this point, the Daytona was still using a modified El Primero movement): a 34 jewel chronograph engine with 50 hours power reserve beating away at 4 Hz (and available only for the Japanese domestic market.)

 I’ve heard tell that Credor is the preferred brand among Japanese Yakuza – a watch that many consider the ultimate status symbol.

A Watch Fit for a Samurai

At first glance, you might mistake the Kumakawa Worldtimer for its stablemate, the Phoenix Chronograph – but look closer. It’s not a chronograph. Christened in honor of Japan’s greatest ballet star, Tetsuya Kumakawa, this 1,000 piece limited edition features both a world time and “true” GMT function allowing for independent setting of the hour hand.

Both world time and GMT complications are easily accessed via two pusher-like crowns. The top “pusher” allows for quick and easy setting of the independent hour hand to local time, while the 24-hour sub-dial at 9 o’clock enables you to track a second time zone.

Using a simple slide rule system, the bottom pusher engages an interior, rotating bezel providing access to local time in some 21 major cities around the world. Simply set the 24-hour bezel to a known time zone and you’re in business. While a second sub-dial at 6 o’clock provides the date, the retro day indicator is a wonderful, meter-style display giving the dial balance as well as a uniquely beautiful aesthetic.

“Do nothing which is of no use,” so intoned Japan’s greatest swordsman turned philosopher, Miyamoto Musashi. Credor’s watchmakers have evidently taken the 16th-century Samurai’s words to heart – eschewing all that is superfluous in favor of simplicity. Nothing remains that doesn’t serve basic function or overall aesthetic.

Calibre 4S77A

Powering the Kumakawa Worldtimer is the Credor-exclusive six-hand, 28 jewel in-house 4S77A – one of Seiko’s finest (and most complicated) automatic movements.

A descendant of the high-end 5200 series of movements produced by Daini Seikosha during Sieko’s Golden Age, it features the expected 28,800 VPH, hacking and quickset date, and also boasts a smooth, seconds hand sweep that eclipses both my Rolex and 36,000 VPH Zenith El Primero.

After three weeks on the wrist, the watch hasn’t required an adjustment and is still dead-on accurate. Truly remarkable for a timepiece approaching the quarter-century mark. But the Calibre 4S77A isn’t just mechanically proficient, it’s a joy to behold through the rear sapphire display. Gold-plated with a satin-like finish, the play of reflected light on its golden, solarized rotor is damn near hypnotic.

Fit and Finish
Where to begin. The Kumakawa’s dial is a flawlessly executed disk of limpid, glistening black lacquer – the finest such example I’ve ever encountered. Even the generously lumed applique markers with their polished frames have a peculiar luster – as does everything on the dial (even the printed matter).

The sub-dials also boast polished frames and a slightly cambered inner ring on which days and hours are tracked, providing clarity and depth and evoking – as one reviewer has noted – the bezel of the Blancpain 50 Fathoms.

The hands are spear-like, partially skeletonized and also generously lumed. If you believe Grand Seiko and Rolex represent the industry standard in dial construction, you’re in for a pleasant – or perhaps, unpleasant – surprise.

Moving on to the case: it’s elegant, yet sporty. The crown guard and pusher arrangement give the watch unique character without adding any awkward or unnecessary bulkiness. The fixed, conical bezel sits slightly inboard of the rest of the construction creating a stepped appearance. The case flanks also have a slight downward step at the lug juncture creating a wonderfully nuanced facet to the assembly.

Everything about the piece seems thoughtful; methodical.

Quick facts: 2000 Kumakawa Worldtimer GMT Limited Edition
Reference: GCBG987 (Limited Edition 1,000 pieces)
Case: 39 mm x 46.5 mm x 12.5 mm (19 mm lug width) stainless steel, brushed & polished, sapphire display back, screw down crown.
Movement: Seiko Calibre 4S77A automatic winding, 28 jewels, 28,800 vph/4 Hz, hacking, quickset date, world time & “true” GMT function. Power reserve 50 hrs.
Crystal: Sapphire
Bracelet: Stainless steel brushed & polished. Double deployant clasp.
Water-resistant: 100 m
Original retail price 2000: $4,000 (approx.)

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[Alexandros00]

Wyler watch co


The history of Wyler is inextricably bound up with that of the Binda concern, now the Milan-based Binda Group, one of the big players in the watch market. The origin of the Wyler watch Company is sometimes given as 1896, but in fact that is the year of Paul Wyler's birth and not the date for the start of the company. In fact, the Binda company, forever associated with the Wyler name, came into being much earlier than Wyler Watch, in 1906, when Innocente Binda opened a small watch shop in Besozzo, on lake Maggiore. By the time the Wyler Watch Company was launched, by brothers Paul and Alfred Wyler, Innocente Binda was already tightening his relationship with Swiss suppliers and beginning to expand his business selling parts and movements in Italy. Binda soon relocated to Milan, and now formed a working relationship with the Wyler brothers - a relationship that was to continue right up to the present time.

The Wyler brothers were both born in the late 19th century, with Paul's birthdate being 15 June 1896. They were born in Basel, Switzerland, and although they were both involved in the Wyler concern, it is Paul who has found fame, largely on the basis that it was he who was responsible for the most important Wyler watch innovations. The Wyler watch company was established in Basel, on 28 March 1924, and it was to remain in Swizerland for the whole of its life, with Wyler SA later having its factory located at Biel. The philosophy behind Wyler Watch was, apparently right from the start, to create innovative timepieces that were sturdy, reliable, and not too expensive, and within a few years of founding the company, Paul Wyler was involved in his first major innovation - Incaflex.

Incaflex was a shock-protection system, launched/patented in 1927 as an incorporation within the company's first 16- and 19-ligne precision movements. Descriptions of how the Wylers' Incaflex system worked are not exactly clear - a problem that occurs with other Wyler innovations, and I provide two quotes here. Wikipedia states that, "The Wyler Incaflex balance wheel is protected along its diameter by two curved, elastic arms, which absorb any shocks to the balance wheel," while the watch industry magazine Europa Star says that Incaflex, "involved a balance wheel made from a single piece of metal, thus making it strong, while its resistance to shocks was guaranteed by two half-spiral symmetrical arms that were reversed and that were joined at the centre of the circumference of the balance."

The second Wyler innovation came in 1935, when the firm introduced Wyler Vetta automatic watches to the market. It isn't clear from the Italian-to-English translation concerning the new automatics whether or not the Wyler version of the automatic watch was in any way particularly innovative. The only description I have is merely the following, "The first (Wyler) automatic watch is born from a simple idea as it is ingenious: take advantage of the natural movements of the wrist to operate a double case back, putting pressure on a button, charging the movement." It is true that Paul Wyler did patent watch cases made in two or three pieces and a "pressure automatism principle," and it is therefore tantalizing to think that early Wyler automatic watches might have been technically innovative.

The continued popularity of Incaflex watches was no doubt enhanced by Paul Wyler's proclivity for engaging in stunts, and in 1956, two Wyler Incaflex timepieces were dropped 300 metres from the top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, and the notary public adjudicating the event confirmed that the two watches were both still in perfect working order. so Even now, in the late 1950s, Incaflex was still being hailed as a major breakthrough in watch technology. Indeed, as late as 1962, the Wyler company was once again "proving" the effectiveness and strength of the Incaflex system, when six Incaflex watches were dropped from the Seattle Tower in Washington State, a fall of 318 feet. The lawyer on hand declared that the six watches had all survived the fall. It has been said that these stunts engendered a tendency of Wyler sales reps to drop the watches on the floor in front of potential customers, literally, "at the drop of a hat."

The tentative re-launch of 2002 proved to be sufficiently successful for Binda to now promote the Wyler-Vetta brand on an international scale. The design of the new watches was entrusted to Swiss designer "Rodolphe" and the philosophy was to be faithful to the spirit of Paul Wyler, with an emphasis on the Wyler company's traditions and watchmaking experience. Thus, the focus was to be on the "Interior Power" or watch movement while, in keeping with Paul Wyler's ambitions, making sure that the watches were reasonable in price for the quality. In about 2003, Guendalina Crocco, in charge of the brand's communication, stated that, "Wyler Vetta is not a brand that speaks on your behalf. It addresses, with its classicism and relative discretion, a cultivated clientele who are above trends. Our primary customers are men between 30 and 45, as well as certain women who are not enslaved by the dictates of fashion. In Italy, our communication is very targeted, often tied, for example, to thematic television channels and cultural programs."



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[george_]

Σήμερα η εταιρεία είναι σε ιταλικα χέρια

[Alexandros00]

Σήμερα η εταιρεία είναι σε ιταλικα χέρια

Ναι αυτό διάβαζα τώρα. Μάλιστα χαρακτηρίζει την εταιρία που την έχει " μεγάλο παιχτη στα ρολόγια "

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[george_]

Μην τα πιστεύεις αυτό που λένε,μια ακόμα εταιρεία είναι