SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL – The crystal on the Omega Seamaster is slightly domed and has been treated, on both sides, with anti-reflective coating. The crystal on the Submariner is flat, without anti-reflective coating and equipped with a ‘date magnifyer’. Personally I prefer the use of an anti-reflective coating on the crystal, although admittedly, with a flat crystal the need for this is less pressing. However that ‘pimple’ on the crystal… that’s a highly subjective topic and some will love it while others feel less charmed by this very recognizable Rolex feature.
CONCLUSION – The main thing to stand out in this part of the comparison is the see-through case-back of the Seamaster. Otherwise, built quality is equally impressive on both models and technical features are almost identical.
CONCLUSION – The main thing to stand out in this part of the comparison is the see-through case-back of the Seamaster. Otherwise, built quality is equally impressive on both models and technical features are almost identical.
DIAL AND HANDS – SEAMASTER VS SUBMARINER
Let’s move on to the dial and hands…
The Submariner that we looked at is the ‘normal’ steel version with its recognizable black dial. There more variations, like a steel Sub with green dial and bezel, a steel and gold version with blue or black dial, a full yellow gold version (black or blue dial and bezel) and a white gold version with blue dial and bezel.
The Seamaster we chose is the version with the blue dial and bezel, a.k.a. the Bond watch. Although James Bond has worn quite a few different Seamaster models, especially since Daniel Craig plays 007, the version that appeared in the Bond movie GoldenEye is to me THE Bond watch (and yes, I know that Bond also wore Rolex, Seiko, Breitling and many more, but still…) The Seamasters that sprouted from the Seamaster Professional as introduced in GoldenEye comes in many different colours (steel, gold, steel and gold) and with more colour variations for dials and bezels than Rolex. Additionally, there’s also a choice of complications, like chronograph and GMT’s.
Whether the dial is blue or black is a matter of personal preference, however, I must add that the fact that Omega’s dial made of ceramic adds a lot to the experience of wearing the Seamaster. The colours go from deep navy blue to dark grey with a hint of blue, to bright blue and the wave pattern is always present, no matter what the angle is. It looks pretty stunning and it brings so much more than any simple plain dial.
The black dial of the Submariner looks good, but the fact of the matter is, it’s a simple black lacquered dial. That’s it. On the other hand, the brand’s logo, the hands and markers, with the ceramic black bezel around, are so iconic that this simply adds a lot to the experience too, and despite its ‘simple’ execution it really looks good.
Whether the hour markers on the Submariner are in white gold, while the ones on the Seamaster are rhodium-plated doesn’t add much or anything actually, at least not to me. Same goes for the luminescent material used in the indices (hour markers) and hands. Chromalight or Super-Luminova, in real life, both perform very well.
CONCLUSION – To me, this section of the comparison ends in a draw.
MOVEMENT – OMEGA CALIBRE 8800 VS ROLEX CALIBRE 3135
So let’s have a look at what’s under the hood, the engines of these iconic timepieces. Both brands have come a long way in terms of precision and chronometry. Both have spent a lot of money, time and effort on improving their movements and the results are impressive. In fact, both can be regarded as best in class and productions numbers are roughly comparable. So let’s see how they compare based on the specs…
CO-AXIAL ESCAPEMENT – Not necessarily to set the tone for this part of the comparison, but this has to be addressed. What Omega achieved with the co-axial escapement is unparalleled and second to none! After more than two centuries of Swiss lever escapement hegemony, Omega managed to industrialize an entirely new escapement and that’s absolutely brilliant. The idea came from non-other than George Daniels, a British watchmaker, and in this Technical Perspective, we explain the nitty-gritty.
SPECS – Both the Omega calibre 8800 and the Rolex calibre 3135 are in-house developed and manufactured movements, both are automatically wound, both feature a date indication, both wind bi-directional, both feature hack or stop seconds, and both are Chronometer-certified by COSC. So far, everything seems pretty comparable and even both feature a free-sprung balance.
But then come the differences… 55 hours of autonomy when fully wound for the Omega, while the Rolex stops after 48 hours. No major difference, but the 55 hours just gives you a bit more of ‘freedom’ to leave the watch for more than two days at your nightstand before wearing it again (without having to set and wind it.)
Si14 VERSUS PARACHROM – Omega opted for Si14, their own type of silicon, for the balance and balance spring. Rolex chose for an a-magnetic alloy named Parachrom, so no silicon balance spring. That’s a deliberate choice as Parachrom is a metal alloy and can be repaired and altered like metal. This is not possible with a silicon balance spring, as this material is extremely fragile and whenever something goes wrong with the Si14 balance spring, it has to be replaced by a new Si14 balance spring. That means service parts must be available. As for the balance, Omega also chooses for Si14, but when I asked Rolex, they didn’t comment on the material used for the balance (hence the question mark.)
MASTER CHRONOMETER – Besides the Si14 balance and balance spring, Omega has invested a lot in developing new metal alloys for many other parts in the movement that, when subjected to magnetism, will influence the watch’ precision drastically. Here Omega outshines Rolex, as they guarantee their Master Chronometer watches (the process is fully explained in this video) to withstand magnetic fields of no less than 15,000 Gauss, while Rolex stays in line with the rest of the industry (and old industry standards) of 1,000 Gauss. With the omnipresence of magnets, whether in bags or chargers for cell phones, this resistance to magnetism is very useful. Moreover, the Master Chronometer tests are performed in-house at the Omega facilities and the Federal Institute of Metrology controls the testing on a daily basis.
DEVIATION – Precision is measured in a deviation between 0 and +5 for Omega and between -2 to +2 for Rolex. The difference is more a matter of choice than anything else and both are extremely precise. Same goes for the warranty both brands offer to their customers: 5 years.
CONCLUSION – Tough call, but to me, the a-magnetic properties of the Omega Seamaster, with their METAS-controlled Master Chronometer certification, the extra 7 hours of power reserve and the impressive feat of having a new escapement, the co-axial escapement, bring the Omega ahead.
CONCLUSION
After comparing apples with apples, it’s time to add the emotions, the opinion, the feelings and… well, we all know that it’s not only the rational part of the mind that makes decisions. And we’ll add the retail price to the mix!
ICONIC – No matter how you look at this, the Rolex Submariner is more iconic! This is certainly an achievement by Rolex, as they have grown/created/nurtured one of the most recognizable watches in the World. Whether you’re in the Sahara desert, in Vietnam, in the jungle of South America, or any place in Europe, USA, Japan, Hong Kong or wherever, there’s a good chance that someone will recognize a Rolex Submariner on your wrist.
This will be less so with the Omega Seamaster, although Omega has gained a lot in ‘recognizability’ when they teamed up with James Bond. Especially the blue dial Seamaster Diver 300m is easily recognized by collectors. However, how the level of iconic-ness remains or increases depends on how consistent Omega will be treating the Bond watch in the coming decade.
Whether this is positive or negative is highly personal. Some prefer to be able to show off what they are wearing, some prefer to fly under the radar. I guess it also depends on where you are, as in some places you do not want to be spotted with a Rolex on your wrist, without having a bodyguard next to you.
THE WATCH ITSELF – When we compare apples with apples, I have to say that Omega wins. Their Seamaster simply packs more of what I like. The METAS certificate, the see-through case back and the pretty spectacular-looking ceramic dial all contribute to its victory. For me, the Submariner’s maxi dial and thick lugs sort of ruin its looks and in that perspective I preferred the more elegant looks of the older ref. 16610, or if Rolex comes with a new Submariner along the lines of what we ‘predicted’ (read: wished) for Baselworld 2020.
PRICE – And then comes the retail price… Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to purchase the Submariner new from the Rolex boutique. Whether it is the strong demand or the ‘controlled’ delivery, either by Rolex themselves or their retail partners, the fact is that you will not be able to buy a Submariner if you walk into a Rolex boutique today. Don’t get me wrong, you can easily buy a brand new Submariner now, but only from grey market sources, only for a premium to be paid atop the retail price and to me that ruins the experience (and hurts extra in the wallet.)
Buying a brand new Omega Seamaster at your local Omega dealer is not so difficult. When buying one, you will get it with a METAS certificate and if you check the Omega website with the number of your watch, you can see how it performed during the tests in the METAS laboratory before it was ready for delivery. I love this, it’s such a nice additional value, an extra user experience.
Now behold… the Rolex Submariner 116610LN retails for EUR 7,800 and the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m retails for EUR 4,900. That is, if you’re able to buy the Submariner at retail price. But suppose you can, the difference in price is impressive; the Sub comes at a more than 60% higher price.
CONCLUSION – The Omega Seamaster Diver 300m offers more value for money, hands down. I love its looks, its technicalities, its Bond ‘charm’ and that it remains a bit fly-under-the-radar. But I love the Submariner for its heritage, history and the legacy of being one of the dive watches that has set the benchmark for how dive watches look today. Technically both watches are pretty equal.
The Bond-charm versus the icon that is the Submariner is mainly a matter of personal taste. Price-wise… well, it’s hard to ignore that the Submariner costs more than 60% more than the Seamaster. To each his own, both are absolutely best in class dive watches, manufactured by best in class brands, with a global retail network and possibility to have it serviced (pretty much) everywhere.
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