Αποστολέας Θέμα: IWC  (Αναγνώστηκε 255862 φορές)

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Αποσυνδεδεμένος Charilaos

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« Απάντηση #60 στις: Νοέμβριος 14, 2011, 13:44:51 μμ »
Αν είδα καλά τα "ψιλά γράμματα" η IWC συνεργάζεται από το 2003 ( ; ) με τη Cousteau Society που ίδρυσε ο Cousteau. Ο Cousteau "έφυγε" το 1997.

Ναι αλλά το : Cousteau Society διοικείται από τους εγγονούς του (που "πουλάνε" τον παππού τους κανονικά!!!!).
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"Δε ζυγιάζω, δε μετρώ,δε βολεύομαι! Ακολουθώ το βαθύ μου χτυποκάρδι"
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nicolasg

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« Απάντηση #61 στις: Δεκέμβριος 08, 2011, 16:33:58 μμ »
Last week IWC honored Hansruedi "Fitti" Fischer, a watchmaker who has been in the service of IWC for 47 years. A master watch maker, Fitti is a legend in  IWC, and one of the few that are able to assemble the Tourbillon.

When asked what piece of advice he would like to give young watchmakers for their way in the future, Fitti said: “Stand out, but only through your good performance.” IWC awarded  Fitti his very own Tourbillon by CEO Georges Kern.

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Αποσυνδεδεμένος Argo982001

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« Απάντηση #62 στις: Δεκέμβριος 26, 2011, 10:27:22 πμ »
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Αποσυνδεδεμένος Elio5

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« Απάντηση #63 στις: Δεκέμβριος 26, 2011, 12:57:38 μμ »
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Καλοκαίρι Μύκονος. Χειμώνας Αράχοβα. Συσκευές Apple. Καφές Starbucks. Δουλειά με μέσον. Κλάμα για την κρίση. Πιο Έλληνας πεθαίνεις.

Αποσυνδεδεμένος damokles

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« Απάντηση #64 στις: Δεκέμβριος 26, 2011, 23:36:31 μμ »
Ψάχνοντας λίγο για τις μηχανές της IWC και σε ποιές βασίζονται, έπεσα σε ένα post του admin του watchtalkforums (http://www.watchtalkforums.info/forums/iwc-review-reference/147-post429.htm) το οποίο και παραθέτω αυτούσιο στα αγγλικά. Το άρθρο είναι αρχικά από το επίσημο forum της IWC και στη συνέχεια εμφανίστηκε στο αυστριακό περιοδικό "Uhrenjournal" της 20ης Νοεμβρίου 1998.

Η ερώτηση που τίθεται ουσιαστικά είναι κατά πόσο μια εταιρία όπως η IWC αναφέρει ότι αν κι έχοντας μια ΕΤΑ ως βάση, τελικά δηλώνει πως παραδίδει μια τεχνικά ανώτερη μηχανή και ως παράδειγμα ρωτάει για την Valjoux 7750 η οποία χρησιμοποιείται στους περισσότερους χρονογράφους της εταιρίας.

Η απάντηση συνοψίζεται στο ότι η εταιρία προμηθεύεται τις μηχανές στα επιμέρους κομμάτια τους, τα περνά από διεξοδικό έλεγχο ποιότητας και στη συνέχεια αντικαθιστά όποια μέρη κρίνει απαραίτητο με δικά της ανώτερης ποιότητας καταφέρνωντας έτσι να προσφέρει αξιόπιστες μηχανές χωρίς να χρειάζεται να επανευφεύρει τον τροχό για τα πιο entry-level μοντέλα της.

Ακολουθεί το σχετικό άρθρο στα αγγλικά. Δυστυχώς δεν έχω το χρόνο και τις τεχνικές γνώσεις για να το μεταφράσω.



"Making an ETA Movement "their own" calibre"...

Hey everyone,

Found this article on the IWC forum, and thought it was very educational. I for one didn't know some manufactures get the raw ETA movements in raw pieces, completely unassembled and then prior to assembly by the manufacture they replace certain components. I think it gives a good glimpse into how a base movement is greatly modified & made into a semi-'in house' movement. While the article is directed at IWC's use of the raw components, I'm sure the concept carries over to others manufactures of similar modification manufacturing.


Article was found on the IWC Forum, and was originally published from the Uhrenjournal, 20 November 1998, an Austrian watch publication.

-----------------------------------------------------------------


Uhrenjournal on IWC's Use of ETA Base Movements

Question:
How can a fine watch manufacturer such as IWC, state, that despite using an ETA-serial calibre, it renders a base ETA movement into a new, superior IWC movement? For example, what changes are made to an ETA-Valjoux 7750 calibre before it is built into an IWC chronograph?


Many watch manufacturers purchase their calibres from the serial base calibre manufacturer ETA. ETA offers a wide variety serving most needs. However, for many watch collectors seeking limited production calibres, this is just the reason to avoid buying a watch with an ETA movement. What if a renowned manufacturer such as IWC Schaffhausen would use the actually very good and tested ETA Valjoux 7750 for its chronographs, after undertaking numerous modifications? What speaks against the ETA movement? Actually, only the fact that it is widely used and therefore not very exclusive. In turn, what speaks for the ETA movement is that, due to the high production, it is a mature and technically impeccable movement. There are no "infant illnesses" and it is constantly developed further. Why therefore should IWC overlook the best serial chronograph-movement? Obviously, there are other alternatives, however, from an economic and technical standpoint, the decision for the Valjoux is guaranteed to be the right move.

Now, what does IWC do with this calibre, and why do they treat it as if it were their own movement? The explanation is pretty simple: IWC purchases the best serial engine and undertakes on that basis the best possible engine tuning. You could say that IWC does what AMG does with Mercedes engines, Alpina with BMW or Abt with VW or Audi engines. Serial engines are used, which in turn are tuned and optimized with the best experience available.

In the case of the Valjoux, the calibre is only bought in its components, never readily assembled. In addition, only the best possible version is purchased - the so-called Chronometer version. When the components arrive in Schaffhausen (IWC's factory location) there are first of all checked by eye, and then randomly checked in detail. Some components of the original ETA calibre are immediately eliminated and are never used by IWC. They are replaced by usually more expensive and better ones.

The entire escapement is a good example. It is ordered separately with different, more exact technical IWC specifications and is only fitted into the calibre at the end of the assembly. Some changes take place even earlier: For instance, all metal bearings of the Valjoux 7760 are replaced by jewel bearings - the Valjoux 7760 (same as the 7750 but in the handwound version) is the basis for the Portugieser Chronograph movements. There is an IWC expert whose job it is to extract by hand all metal bearings from the supplied calibre and replace them with the more expensive jeweled bearings. This is an effort, which will ultimately significantly increase the longevity of the movement.

This exercise is futile in the version 7750 as it only comes with jewels. Instead numerous cogwheels are replaced. For instance, one is part of the winding mechanism, which ETA supplies with three holes in order that it can be worked on by machines and be transported by robot arms. As the holes are drilled, there is some metal, which is pushed over the surface - causing friction with the above-located bridge. Now IWC found out that it is precisely the position of these holes, which will cause fine metallic debris over time to accumulate. In the short run, such metallic debris is not a problem, however over a longer period such debris will cause problems.

Many more examples could be listed at this point, reaching far beyond the space allocated for this article. Therefore, let's come back to the escapement of the movement. Before the escapement is fitted into the movement, a specially trained, female horological expert (so-called regleuse) checks each hairspring for unevenness. How does she do it? Quite simple, she holds the escapement with a special device and turns it. Then she makes sure with her magnifying glass than the escapement unfolds in concentric circles. If not, she manually bends the hairspring to perfection. Again, this in an effort of which the value is only apparent in the sum of all efforts and is ultimately reflected in the accuracy of the movement. The pinnacle of all these tuning efforts lies in completely replacing the barrel. There are some many changes and modifications to the calibre 7750 leading to far lower power requirements of the movement. As a result the original ETA barrel is now far too strong for the modified IWC movement. A "weaker" IWC barrel brings about significant advantages. All moving parts suffer far less wear and tear because there are exposed to far smaller forces - again, this significantly prolongs the average life of an IWC movement.

It is not exaggerated if IWC makes the statement that it treats the ETA movements as if it were an original IWC movement. The numerous modifications and the great care, completely transform the original, mass-produced movement by ETA into another movement. ETA is not necessarily ETA as it is often falsely stated.

12/02/2007 @ http://www.watchtalkforums.info
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"For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return" Leonardo da Vinci

Αποσυνδεδεμένος george_

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« Απάντηση #65 στις: Δεκέμβριος 27, 2011, 08:00:21 πμ »
Η ερώτηση που τίθεται ουσιαστικά είναι κατά πόσο μια εταιρία όπως η IWC αναφέρει ότι αν κι έχοντας μια ΕΤΑ ως βάση, τελικά δηλώνει πως παραδίδει μια τεχνικά ανώτερη μηχανή και ως παράδειγμα ρωτάει για την Valjoux 7750 η οποία χρησιμοποιείται στους περισσότερους χρονογράφους της εταιρίας.


Η σχεδιαση ,η αρχιτεκτονικη,η δημιουργια ειναι ΕΤΑ...μια λειτουργικη μηχανη ,χωρις προβληματα..ολα αυτα κοστιζουν..
« Τελευταία τροποποίηση: Δεκέμβριος 27, 2011, 08:02:26 πμ από george_ »
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Αποσυνδεδεμένος george_

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« Απάντηση #66 στις: Δεκέμβριος 27, 2011, 08:29:52 πμ »
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Αποσυνδεδεμένος damokles

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« Απάντηση #67 στις: Δεκέμβριος 27, 2011, 09:56:26 πμ »
Ευχαριστώ πολύ Γιώργο. Θα το μελετήσω σύντομα  :)
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"For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return" Leonardo da Vinci

Αποσυνδεδεμένος george_

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« Απάντηση #68 στις: Ιανουάριος 02, 2012, 00:41:38 πμ »
IWC Miramar








The calibre 89365 found in the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar is one of the most advanced and robust chronograph movements ever produced. It has a flyback function as well as an analogue display for stopped minutes and seconds. Commenting on the family’s positioning in the international watch market, Karoline Huber, Director Marketing & Communications at IWC, explains: “Flying enthusiasts all over the world think of Miramar in California as the birth place of the Top Gun legend. With our new TOP GUN Miramar design line, we are addressing watch lovers who consciously embrace IWC’s long-standing tradition of manufacturing Pilot’s Watches but who also wish to benefit from the technological advances of the 21st century and the inimitable quality typical of IWC.”
The case is made of grey ceramic (zirconium oxide), which is virtually scratch proof.


, this watch is not based on a Valjoux 7750, but rather IWC's excellent in-house calibre 89365, which is a flyback chronograph with a power reserver of 168 hours
« Τελευταία τροποποίηση: Ιανουάριος 02, 2012, 00:44:26 πμ από george_ »
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nicolasg

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« Απάντηση #69 στις: Ιανουάριος 02, 2012, 01:17:04 πμ »
Πολύ ωραίο!
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Αποσυνδεδεμένος damokles

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« Απάντηση #70 στις: Ιανουάριος 02, 2012, 05:47:00 πμ »
Όμορφο, μαχητικά χρώματα, in-house και 168 ώρες power reserve  ???, αλλά 48mm... λίγο γαϊδουρι
Λογικά θα κινείται σε επίπεδα άνω των 10.000€
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"For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return" Leonardo da Vinci

Αποσυνδεδεμένος Blackbird

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« Απάντηση #71 στις: Ιανουάριος 05, 2012, 10:55:35 πμ »
168 ώρες = 7 ημέρες

Η 89365 είναι ίδια με την 89360 του Portuguese Chronograph Yacht Club με μόνη διαφορά πως λείπει η χρονομέτρηση ώρας στο 12.
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Κύλησε το πίτουρο,

Αποσυνδεδεμένος damokles

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« Απάντηση #72 στις: Ιανουάριος 05, 2012, 11:11:13 πμ »
168 ώρες = 7 ημέρες

....ναι... πόσταρα το σχόλιο και μετά έκανα τη διαίρεση και συνειδητοποίησα ότι τις 7 ημέρες τις έχει προσφέρει ήδη από καιρό  ;D Βιάστικα λίγο... :P
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"For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return" Leonardo da Vinci

Αποσυνδεδεμένος Argo982001

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« Απάντηση #73 στις: Ιανουάριος 10, 2012, 21:08:29 μμ »
, αλλά 48mm... λίγο γαϊδουρι
46mm τελικα
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Αποσυνδεδεμένος damokles

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« Απάντηση #74 στις: Ιανουάριος 10, 2012, 23:44:07 μμ »
Τα 46mm είναι ένα πιο λογικό μέγεθος. Τουλάχιστον, πιο λογικό από τα 48mm...
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"For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return" Leonardo da Vinci