Collector’s Tip: The Tissot PR516 SeriesAs a collector of Tissot watches, as my collection grows I wonder. Which fine Tissot pieces shall I collect? The answer is easy: Buy what I like. As far as Tissot goes, this includes most of their early wristwatches from 1935 up to 1955. These are typically manual-wind watches with an extra feature, such as a date hand or a square case. Naturally, the bumper-wind automatics and perhaps a rare chronograph is important to collect.
There is a second category, namely Tissot watches that marked a particular era or were significant to the brand. For instance, the Astralon/Syntal or Idea 2001 plastic watches are important, just as for Vulcain their Cricket Alarm or the Jeager LeCoultre’s Reverso were notable. Since the PR516 range does not easily fall into a category, why should one collect them? A good reason is that I like watches made from stainless steel.
I like steel watches with an original all-steel, preferably integrated bracelet with proper logos/signatures from the correct period. This leads to the “PR” series (and specially the GL model, see above). The PR series was produced starting in 1960. The PR series also came with many different dial colours and with different types of movement. The chance of getting two exactly same watches is slim. Read on and you will see what I mean.
-T- In general -T-Tissot used (and still uses) many model names for their watches. One that has been used almost continuously is the well-known Seastar name. This name reflects the watch’s water resistance. Seastars come with a Sea “star” or ship logo on the caseback. Another type of Seastar that surfaces often but is less noticeable is the Seastar with “PR” added to the model name. These two letters probably stand for : <b> Particulary Robust</b>. These days we have the PR 100, PRS 50, PRS 200 models, and more… But we will stick with vintage versions.
-T- 1 9 5 6 -T-Tissot introduced its sports-watch line in 1956, exemplified by the Tissot PR 516. It is still unclear why Tissot chose the name for the watch: I still wonder what “516″ means. If you know, please tell me! There were only a few different types of PR 516, but there was nothing spectacular about the watch or its marketing, just a nice addition to the Tissot model lineup. The PR models started out with the usual hand-wind and automatic-wind mechanisms, usually in solid steel cases—gold and gold plate are not very robust, right?
-T- 1 9 6 5 -T-Approximately ten years later, Tissot realized that their PR 516 range was not selling particularity well, so they invested effort into a new marketing strategy. They linked the PR series to motorsports. Tissot produced leather straps and metal bracelets with holes in them to resemble the spokes of an automobile steering wheel. When the new campaign was launched, the PR series gained appreciation by the wider public. Tissot then adding more models to the PR range, such as the GL (PR 516 GL). The “GL” stands for <b>Grand Luxe</b>. These models are recognisable by their solid, integrated metal bracelets and a date (and often a day) window at the three o’clock position. The GL models also featured a gold plated version. A chronograph was added to the PR 516 range, too.
-T- 1 9 7 2 – T-In 1972, the PR model range was still being sold. Because of its enduring success, and to keep the PR a viable product, a new feature was launched: Tissot added the Sonorous edition, Tissot’s name for their alarm watches. The Sonorous model I know also features a diving ring. It seems foolish to make the Sonorous a diver’s watch because the caseback of a Sonorous has six large holes to better hear alarm! Yet that is probably just what the public wanted.
In the early 1970′s, a new type of PR was launched, the so-called PR 518 (see below). This was an EXTRA robust watch with an equally robust stainless steel wrist band.
The PR 518 is the heaviest Tissot watch I have owned. The bracelet is thicker than on any other Tissot. The most noticeable feature of the PR 518 is the case, made from extra-hardened steel. On the caseback one can read, “1000 degree HV” (hardness measured by Vickers testing) -> almost scratch-free… That really is Particularly Robust, yes?
-T- 2000 -T-The newest star in the PR range is the PRS 516 model. It is, in fact, a tribute to the original PR. It is slightly redesigned to suit current fashion, so its case is a little larger.
The bezel is no longer plastic but made from more durable material. One great thing is that the racing holes in the strap is retained! Straps are made in nice, thick black or brown leather with a folding steel clasp available—not the vintage-style folding clasp but a sturdy modern solid steel version. Perfect. The new PRS range includes automatic-wind and chronograph models. These were originally only available in quartz movements, but later PRS models use the Valjoux 7750 movement. The new PRS series is available in in a wide range of cases and colors, so a perfect PR series model is available for those times when you need that take Particular Robustness a step further!
-T- The PR516 different models-T-The original design case is distinctive. It is occasionally and found on other brands that try to copy the unique straightforward design. the best thing about the PR case design is that it is timeless. As you can read in Part I of the PR516 series, it was made and sold for more than 20 years. It uses a flat tonneau form which has straight cut-outs at both ends to create lugs. It is cut through perfectly round to fit the crystal, the movement, and the screw-in back. The backs to these watches are also basic and not signed. The only thing signed are the straight crowns that match these cases.
The cases come mainly in steel, but in some instances they are gold filled when used for the more dressy versions. Most gold PR’s use flat hand-wind movements, but I have seen some chronographs in gold-filled cases. A very small number of PR’s were made with solid gold cases.
The variety of dial colours is perhaps the most distinctive thing about the PR series. One often finds dials in silver, white, or even black, but black and white models are seen more often. There are some gray-coloured versions (with or without crosshairs), white models, blue ones (with or without crosshairs), and my favorite, the green with white dial. On gold or gold-filled case models, there are only a few colours: Brown, red and gold.
Insofar as chronographs in the PR 516 series is concerned, there is little difference between them—although there is one model which uses the PR case but does not have “PR516″ written on the dial. There are usually two models in steel cases, one with a red-white chapter ring and one with a black-white tachymeter bezel. There are other slight differences: Chronographs were made with two- and three-register movements. Subdials on these models were square or round. There are four models in every colour possiblity. There is a gold-filled case chronograph which is quite rare. It is possible that four sub-models were made for this…
Alarm, blue, silver, white, Navigator, 24-hour, Divers (green), Ladies, blue, black
-T- The PR516 different movements-T-Different PR models came with different movements and different prices. Most use automatic or hand-wind movements, but in the late 1970′s there also were models with electric and quartz movements. At the bottom of this post, one of the rarer alarm versions is shown, as well as a 24-hour version. Of course, there are also Lemania-powered chronographs with two or three registers, as well as ladies’ versions using hand-wind and automatic movements.
-T- The PR516 bracelets-T-The PR series has it own set of bracelets to go with each model. Bracelets suit the fashion of the period in which they were produced in as well as to match dial colors. The silver racing-hole bracelet is possible best known. I have seen it in three different versions.
Below are most of the racing bracelets and straps: Steel, gold-filled, brown and black leather. There are also two rare versions, one colored blue and one in brown aluminum!
The left watch above is the PR 516 Sonorus Alarm from 1972. It has a A. Schild alarm movement Cal. AS 1931 with date. It features two spring barrels and a nice “Rrrrrrrrr” alarm sound that lasts for 12 seconds. I especially like its colour scheme. I am not sure about the diver’s ring, though. Since it is stuck to the case. I thought it ought to be able to turn…
http://www.sometimeago.com/collector-tip-tissot-pr516-series/
