Louis Erard Introduces a Multi-Colored Grand Feu Enamel Dial Limited Edition in a 39mm Case
Louis Erard’s latest limited edition is another watch in what has become an ongoing exploration of traditional craft at an affordable price point. This is continuing theme in their recent releases (the ones that aren’t regulators made with a collaborator, at least) and one can easily draw a line from this new watch with a Grand Feu enamel dial and previously issued pieces that featured guilloche work and exotic stone dials. The new watch seen here, officially dubbed the Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm (we’ll go with Grand Feu II from here on out) puts a focus on the difficult process involved creating a multi-colored enamel dial, with a total of three colors represented on the Grand Feu II.
In this period of widespread experimentation in the independent and micro-brand watch scene, we probably take the use of multiple colors in a single dial for granted. The fact is, however, that the degree of difficulty goes up whenever a new color is added to a dial, and it becomes easier to spot imperfections in the painting and printing process with every new hue. With an enamel dial, the challenge is exacerbated as each color has to be fired separately in a kiln at a temperature of more than 800°C. Each firing requires meticulous preparation on the part of the enameler, and the more frequently a dial is subjected to the kiln the greater the chance something will go wrong, and the whole process will need to start over.
For the Grand Feu II, the base color is a traditional white enamel, accented with blue indices (alternating Roman numerals and simple elongated hashes) and a railroad minute track, and a flash of red at 12:00. The execution has elements of traditional, classic watchmaking, but the use of color breathes some contemporary design cues into the piece, which is something Louis Erard really excels at.
While the enamel dial will correctly get most of the attention from enthusiasts, the hidden star of the show is the 39mm case. If one can find a consistent fault with the otherwise inspired recent releases from Louis Erard, it’s that their standard 42mm case size (with a lug width of 22mm) is a tad large for many, particularly the hardcore enthusiasts who are likely gravitating toward these releases in the first place. We saw Louis Erard introduce a 39mm case to their limited edition slate a few months ago with the Excellence Petite Seconde, and we’re happy to see that trend continue while remaining hopeful it extends to a regulator limited edition in the future. Regardless, it just feels right to attach your enamel dial, one of most old-school flexes in watchmaking craft, to a case with more traditional dimensions.
For the movement, Louis Erard has chosen a Swiss made Sellita SW261-1. This automatic winding caliber has 38 hours of power reserve and is the élaboré grade, and features a custom rotor visible through the display caseback. The Grand Feu II is water resistant to 50 meters and comes mounted to a bright red calf leather strap with blue stitching, matching the accent colors on the dial.
The retail price on the Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm is CHF 3,900, and it’s a limited edition of 99 pieces.
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