Στάλθηκε από: Petros1
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 15:36:50 μμ »Εγώ στην αρχή νόμιζα ότι ήταν spam ολα αυτά, μετά είδα τον αποστολέαΚαι τότε βεβαιώθηκες ε...?
Στάλθηκε από: nicolasg
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 14:02:04 μμ »Εγώ στην αρχή νόμιζα ότι ήταν spam ολα αυτά, μετά είδα τον αποστολέα 
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 14:02:00 μμ »Αναλυτικότατο,και κατατοπιστικό...Όρεξη να χει κανείς να διαβάζει...Μπράβο σου.
Στάλθηκε από: Petros1
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 14:00:43 μμ »Αναλυτικότατο,και κατατοπιστικό...Όρεξη να χει κανείς να διαβάζει... Μπράβο σου.
Μπράβο σου.Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:24:33 μμ »
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that's a very nice watch and one of my personal favorit chrono movement's. It's one of the oldest chrono movements used for WW's but was in use for PW's too.
The base caliber was the 15'' ch. Later made "transformations" are the 15 TL, 15 CHT and some special movements with "reduced" chrono functions (stop second or stop second with zero setting, or only center second..).
The 4 digit cal. numbers are the later "names" of the same movements.
Omega called this movement 33.3 CHRO and the same did Tissot.
It's a very classic Lemania construction and a real "workhorse"
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:21:27 μμ »
hosting imagenes
Often the surfaces of larger parts, such as bridges, are decorated with evenly-spaced, parallel lines, either straight or circular, achieved using a boxwood pad and a lathe. Some parts are chased or engraved by hand. Some of the popular techniques used to polish, finish and decorate watch movements are:
Côtes or vagues de Genève: A decoration of undulating lines, like waves, frequently used to embellish superior quality movements.
Stippling: A decorative finish of overlapping circles in a close-set concentric pattern that gives a distinctive textured effect.
Engraving: The art of forming patterns either by hand, using a graver, or by machine such as a rose engine.
Geneva Stripes: A form of decoration in higher grade watch movements which look like stripes on the movement plates.
Blued Screws: Traditionally, high quality movements were fitted with screws which were artificially blued, more for decoration than function.
Vrac: This is the electroplating of the movement to provide some form of protection rather as a finish or decoration.
Flat matte finish: As the name implies, this finish is matte and looks unfinished. This is the most basic of finish available.
Flat brush finish: It is achieved by brushing the finish in a single direction.
Adoucie: This is a form of polishing that is either linear or circular and is achieved with the use of abrasive paper.
Colimaçonnéealso known as Colimaçon (snalling or spiralling): Snalling is a decorative finish which takes the form of curved lines originating from a common centre.
Colimaçonnée diamant: This is the same as Colimaçonnée and is achieved with the use of a rotating diamond cutting tool which imparts brilliance on the cut surface.
Colimaçonnée papier: Another form of snalling but with the use of abrasive paper. Also known as Soleil (sun) or Soleillées (sun beams), this is achieved by rotating the abrasive paper on the rotating parts to be polished. The strokes can originate from a common centre or be at a tangent to the edge.
Perlée: Also known as Perlage (machine turned), this is the most common form of decoration. It looks like swirls of overlapping circles. The circular grains are achieved by applying overlapping circular patterns by rubbing a pegwood with emery paste.
Jewels: Higher grade watches have traditionally used a jewelled movement. These jewels (originally natural ruby, now synthetic ruby) are functional - they are used as the bearings for the wheel trains and in high wear parts such as the escape lever and impulse jewel.
Skeleton watch: It is a timepiece in which all of the moving parts are visible through either the front of the watch or the back. True skeletonisation also includes the trimming away of any non-essential metal on the bridge, plate, wheel train or any other mechanical part of the watch, leaving only a minimalist 'bare' skeleton of the movement required for functionality. Often, the remaining thinned movement is decorated with engraving.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:20:09 μμ »Most movements remain hidden from view, protected inside their case. Some, though, can be admired through a sapphire crystal case back that reveals this complex geometry of wheels, bridges and mechanisms. These tiny, tiered parts are decorated and finished with no less of an attention to detail than that devoted to the watch's exterior. Even when the movement will not be visible through the case back, a Fine Watch movement will always be richly decorated and finished to the highest degree of beauty and perfection.
In a Fine Watch movement, the least trace of machining is erased from the surface of each part. Every last wheel, the smallest pinion is smoothed, polished, circular-grained or countersunk. Many different techniques are employed, beginning with polishing each surface and edge.
In a Fine Watch movement, the least trace of machining is erased from the surface of each part. Every last wheel, the smallest pinion is smoothed, polished, circular-grained or countersunk. Many different techniques are employed, beginning with polishing each surface and edge.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:19:17 μμ »Watch movements come in various shapes to fit different case styles and are measured in lignes or in millimetres. Each specific watch movement is called a caliber. The movement parts are separated into two main categories: those belonging to the ébauches and those belonging to the assortments. An ébauche is typically understood to mean a ‘raw’ or unassembled, unfinished movement, including the major structural components (plates, bridges) and sometimes parts of the wheel train and other moving parts.
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Many watch companies purchase complete movements from a major supplier such as ETA or Lemania. Some watch companies purchase an ébauche from a major supplier, polish and decorate the parts (i.e. finish the parts), and assemble it with standard parts to create a higher quality-controlled movement than the stock ready-made movement. Other companies purchase ébauches, finish them to a high standard, modify parts of the movement, and add custom components like an upgraded escapement assembly - to create what might be called a custom version of that movement. However, several top brands only use movements that are developed and manufactured within their own company. These are called in-house movements.
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Many watch companies purchase complete movements from a major supplier such as ETA or Lemania. Some watch companies purchase an ébauche from a major supplier, polish and decorate the parts (i.e. finish the parts), and assemble it with standard parts to create a higher quality-controlled movement than the stock ready-made movement. Other companies purchase ébauches, finish them to a high standard, modify parts of the movement, and add custom components like an upgraded escapement assembly - to create what might be called a custom version of that movement. However, several top brands only use movements that are developed and manufactured within their own company. These are called in-house movements.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:14:41 μμ »THE LÉMANIA LEGACY
Lémania Is Born
As a result of these successes, A. Lugrin S.A. became known as an innovative maker of chronograph movements and won awards for caliber designs. It won medals for entries in the 1906 Milan fair and the 1914 Bern fair. Swiss records document that on March 12, 1918, the name of the Lémania Watch Company is registered in the Canton of Vaud. According to NAWCC life-member Claude Girardin, operation of the company passed to Alfred Lugrin’s son-in-law Marius Meylan as its new managing director in about 1920.
In 1930 the Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère (SSIH) was formed when Omega and Tissot joined forces. By 1932, the dire economic climate forced Meylan to approach the SSIH to purchase Lémania and save the company. This proved mutually beneficial as Omega in particular would now have free access to Lémania’s superb chronograph movements and Lémania was free to continue to market watches under its own name and it did so for decades.
Albert Piquet was one of the firm’s star designers. His career at Lémania would span more than forty years. One of his first designs was the Lémania 27-CHRO-12, released in 1942. The movement was a tri-compax chronograph with column wheel that included 12-hour elapsed time indication. Working in conjunction with Omega, Piquet further refined this movement to include shock protection and an antimagnetic balance spring, and Omega introduced it in 1946 as the now famed Cal. 321.
Lémania, Omega and the Speedmaster
The post-World War II era was a boon for Lémania as well as all Swiss movement and watch companies as the world returned to peace and the resumption of commercial production. While Lémania and Omega had produced manual-wind chronographs during this period, the 1957 introduction of the Omega Speedmaster profoundly affected the fortunes of both companies. The Speedmaster was powered by the Omega caliber 321 movement, but it was its brilliant horological industrial design that would see it go on to become a timekeeping icon of the 20th century.
The Speedmaster was adopted by NASA for its manned spaceflight program and was informally worn during the latter missions of the Mercury program. It was astronaut Ed White’s spacewalk outside his Gemini capsule that catapulted the Speedmaster to worldwide renown. Henceforth, Omega called it the Speedmaster Professional. With Apollo 11—the first manned landing on the Moon—both Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin wore their Speedmasters as crucial timekeeping instruments and made the watch one of the most desired watches in the world—the “first watch worn on the Moon”—as Omega proudly advertised.
A new chronograph caliber appeared in 1965—the Lémania 1873– and this was the basis of the Omega 861 subsequently used in the Speedmaster Professional from late 1967 onward. Differences from the 321 included the switch from a column wheel to a shuttle/cam chronograph mechanism, eliminating the screws in the balance wheel, increasing the beat to 21,600 bph, incorporating a flat balance spring and changing the shape of the main bridge.
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The Apollo Moon missions and caliber improvements solidified Lémania’s reputation and its chronograph movements were also employed by Breitling, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux and many others and at all price ranges. Of course, Lémania’s chronographs were all manual-wind, 17-jewel movements, and the circumstances surrounding the race to change that and create the first Swiss automatic chronograph is well documented. The first Breitling, Heuer and Hamilton watches with automatics first appeared in 1969, while Zenith also worked on its own automatic chronograph and introduced its El Primero movement the same year.
Lémania, however, was slow to get out of the gate. Perhaps this is so because Valjoux, its chief competitor in the manufacture of chronograph movements, did not offer an automatic chronograph movement, but eventually Lémania did begin work on an automatic chronograph. This was in the early 1970s and there is little doubt Albert Piquet was also involved with its design.
The subdial configuration he selected was a 12-hour counter at six o’clock, a sweep second at nine o’clock and a 24-hour counter at 12 o’clock. It had central stop seconds and stop minutes counters, with the latter having a swept-wing fighter tip to distinguish it from the second counter. In addition, it displayed date and day at three o’clock.
Lémania worked to lower the cost of chronograph manufacture with its best-known early model, the Caliber 5100. The 17-jewel movement employed pillar construction, meaning the stamped bridges and some other parts were pinned to the main plate with tiny pillars, and as little machining as possible was performed. Numerous parts were nylon, the most prominent being the grey rotor bumper stops which also served to provide support to the rotor in the event of hard shocks. The chronograph module was placed between the dial and the base plate instead of traditionally between the base plate and automatic winding mechanism. It employed the Kif-Flector shock absorbing system, instead of the industry standard Incabloc.
Piquet wanted a rugged chronograph movement with the 5100 to be used in demanding sports activities and even military use, not simply a chronograph dress watch movement. In this, Lémania succeeded.
The Lémania 5100, introduced in 1978, was adopted by Heuer, Omega, Sinn, Orfina’s Porsche Design, Tutima and many other brands and was manufactured for more than a quarter of a century. The Tutima and Sinn chronographs with the 5100 continued to be supplied to the German military and actually succeeded in prolonging the movement’s production. Production finally ceased in the early 2000s, but ETA revisited the design. It completely re-engineered the movement with all-new tooling and introduced it as the 15-jewel C01.211 exclusively for Tissot in its mechanical chronograph models.
Lémania Is Born
As a result of these successes, A. Lugrin S.A. became known as an innovative maker of chronograph movements and won awards for caliber designs. It won medals for entries in the 1906 Milan fair and the 1914 Bern fair. Swiss records document that on March 12, 1918, the name of the Lémania Watch Company is registered in the Canton of Vaud. According to NAWCC life-member Claude Girardin, operation of the company passed to Alfred Lugrin’s son-in-law Marius Meylan as its new managing director in about 1920.
In 1930 the Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère (SSIH) was formed when Omega and Tissot joined forces. By 1932, the dire economic climate forced Meylan to approach the SSIH to purchase Lémania and save the company. This proved mutually beneficial as Omega in particular would now have free access to Lémania’s superb chronograph movements and Lémania was free to continue to market watches under its own name and it did so for decades.
Albert Piquet was one of the firm’s star designers. His career at Lémania would span more than forty years. One of his first designs was the Lémania 27-CHRO-12, released in 1942. The movement was a tri-compax chronograph with column wheel that included 12-hour elapsed time indication. Working in conjunction with Omega, Piquet further refined this movement to include shock protection and an antimagnetic balance spring, and Omega introduced it in 1946 as the now famed Cal. 321.
Lémania, Omega and the Speedmaster
The post-World War II era was a boon for Lémania as well as all Swiss movement and watch companies as the world returned to peace and the resumption of commercial production. While Lémania and Omega had produced manual-wind chronographs during this period, the 1957 introduction of the Omega Speedmaster profoundly affected the fortunes of both companies. The Speedmaster was powered by the Omega caliber 321 movement, but it was its brilliant horological industrial design that would see it go on to become a timekeeping icon of the 20th century.
The Speedmaster was adopted by NASA for its manned spaceflight program and was informally worn during the latter missions of the Mercury program. It was astronaut Ed White’s spacewalk outside his Gemini capsule that catapulted the Speedmaster to worldwide renown. Henceforth, Omega called it the Speedmaster Professional. With Apollo 11—the first manned landing on the Moon—both Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin wore their Speedmasters as crucial timekeeping instruments and made the watch one of the most desired watches in the world—the “first watch worn on the Moon”—as Omega proudly advertised.
A new chronograph caliber appeared in 1965—the Lémania 1873– and this was the basis of the Omega 861 subsequently used in the Speedmaster Professional from late 1967 onward. Differences from the 321 included the switch from a column wheel to a shuttle/cam chronograph mechanism, eliminating the screws in the balance wheel, increasing the beat to 21,600 bph, incorporating a flat balance spring and changing the shape of the main bridge.
Solid image
The Apollo Moon missions and caliber improvements solidified Lémania’s reputation and its chronograph movements were also employed by Breitling, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux and many others and at all price ranges. Of course, Lémania’s chronographs were all manual-wind, 17-jewel movements, and the circumstances surrounding the race to change that and create the first Swiss automatic chronograph is well documented. The first Breitling, Heuer and Hamilton watches with automatics first appeared in 1969, while Zenith also worked on its own automatic chronograph and introduced its El Primero movement the same year.
Lémania, however, was slow to get out of the gate. Perhaps this is so because Valjoux, its chief competitor in the manufacture of chronograph movements, did not offer an automatic chronograph movement, but eventually Lémania did begin work on an automatic chronograph. This was in the early 1970s and there is little doubt Albert Piquet was also involved with its design.
The subdial configuration he selected was a 12-hour counter at six o’clock, a sweep second at nine o’clock and a 24-hour counter at 12 o’clock. It had central stop seconds and stop minutes counters, with the latter having a swept-wing fighter tip to distinguish it from the second counter. In addition, it displayed date and day at three o’clock.
Lémania worked to lower the cost of chronograph manufacture with its best-known early model, the Caliber 5100. The 17-jewel movement employed pillar construction, meaning the stamped bridges and some other parts were pinned to the main plate with tiny pillars, and as little machining as possible was performed. Numerous parts were nylon, the most prominent being the grey rotor bumper stops which also served to provide support to the rotor in the event of hard shocks. The chronograph module was placed between the dial and the base plate instead of traditionally between the base plate and automatic winding mechanism. It employed the Kif-Flector shock absorbing system, instead of the industry standard Incabloc.
Piquet wanted a rugged chronograph movement with the 5100 to be used in demanding sports activities and even military use, not simply a chronograph dress watch movement. In this, Lémania succeeded.
The Lémania 5100, introduced in 1978, was adopted by Heuer, Omega, Sinn, Orfina’s Porsche Design, Tutima and many other brands and was manufactured for more than a quarter of a century. The Tutima and Sinn chronographs with the 5100 continued to be supplied to the German military and actually succeeded in prolonging the movement’s production. Production finally ceased in the early 2000s, but ETA revisited the design. It completely re-engineered the movement with all-new tooling and introduced it as the 15-jewel C01.211 exclusively for Tissot in its mechanical chronograph models.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:13:10 μμ »10. Breitling B01
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Following in the footsteps of Omega and TAG Heuer, Breitling also felt the urge to design and develop a chronograph movement in its own facilities. Breitling introduced its B01 chronograph movement in 2009. Before that, Breitling, like many other watch brands, used mainly ETA/Valjoux chronograph movements, along with an occasional Lemania. (In some models, Breitling still uses these.) The Breitling B01 movement is fully developed and manufactured in-house and has a column-wheel chronograph system. It has a 70-hour power reserve and a traditional tricompax layout. It was first introduced in the Chronomat, but since then Breitling has also installed versions of it in a number of its other watches, including the Navitimer 01, Montbrillant 01 and Chronomat 44.
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Following in the footsteps of Omega and TAG Heuer, Breitling also felt the urge to design and develop a chronograph movement in its own facilities. Breitling introduced its B01 chronograph movement in 2009. Before that, Breitling, like many other watch brands, used mainly ETA/Valjoux chronograph movements, along with an occasional Lemania. (In some models, Breitling still uses these.) The Breitling B01 movement is fully developed and manufactured in-house and has a column-wheel chronograph system. It has a 70-hour power reserve and a traditional tricompax layout. It was first introduced in the Chronomat, but since then Breitling has also installed versions of it in a number of its other watches, including the Navitimer 01, Montbrillant 01 and Chronomat 44.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:11:53 μμ »9. Seiko Ananta Spring Drive Movement (Caliber 5R86)
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I recall that, at one point, Seiko’s Spring Drive movement got so much publicity that people who inquired about my watch hobby were under the assumption that all watches wound by the motion of the wrist were called “Spring Drive” watches. Seiko did an excellent marketing job on that. The Ananta Chronograph was a Seiko watch that really caught my eye, with its Caliber 5R86 movement. Instead of a traditional escapement, the Spring Drive system uses a combination of a balance wheel, electro-magnetic energy, and a quartz oscillator for optimum accuracy; it uses a rotor to wind the mainspring. As you can see, the finishing is superb. If you can live without the traditional tick-tock of a purely mechanical movement, give a watch with this Seiko movement a chance.
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I recall that, at one point, Seiko’s Spring Drive movement got so much publicity that people who inquired about my watch hobby were under the assumption that all watches wound by the motion of the wrist were called “Spring Drive” watches. Seiko did an excellent marketing job on that. The Ananta Chronograph was a Seiko watch that really caught my eye, with its Caliber 5R86 movement. Instead of a traditional escapement, the Spring Drive system uses a combination of a balance wheel, electro-magnetic energy, and a quartz oscillator for optimum accuracy; it uses a rotor to wind the mainspring. As you can see, the finishing is superb. If you can live without the traditional tick-tock of a purely mechanical movement, give a watch with this Seiko movement a chance.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:10:07 μμ »8. Patek Philippe CHR 29-535 PS Q
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Remember the Lemania chronograph movement used by Patek Philippe that I covered in my top five? This movement, Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q was developed in-house by Patek Philippe. It is hand-wound and was used for the first time in Patek’s Reference 5402P (I wrote about that watch here). The movement consists of 496 parts and features not only a chronograph with split-seconds function, but also a perpetual calendar, placing it firmly in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection. It is a relatively small movement compared to the others here (30 mm diameter) but quite thick. The finishing on all the parts is magnificent. Patek Philippe has filed for a patent on its new split-seconds lever construction. An amazing movement that is unfortunately — like the A. Lange & Söhne chronograph movement that came in at #5 — available only for a fortunate few.
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Remember the Lemania chronograph movement used by Patek Philippe that I covered in my top five? This movement, Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q was developed in-house by Patek Philippe. It is hand-wound and was used for the first time in Patek’s Reference 5402P (I wrote about that watch here). The movement consists of 496 parts and features not only a chronograph with split-seconds function, but also a perpetual calendar, placing it firmly in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection. It is a relatively small movement compared to the others here (30 mm diameter) but quite thick. The finishing on all the parts is magnificent. Patek Philippe has filed for a patent on its new split-seconds lever construction. An amazing movement that is unfortunately — like the A. Lange & Söhne chronograph movement that came in at #5 — available only for a fortunate few.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:07:59 μμ »7. TAG Heuer Caliber 1969
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Remember the uproar when it was revealed that TAG Heuer’s Caliber 1887 movement was based on a Seiko chronograph caliber? Even though TAG Heuer modified it, and is producing it in Switzerland, the word “Seiko” lit a fire under some diehard Swiss-watch fans. This year, TAG Heuer introduced another new chronograph movement, Caliber 1969. The caliber number refers to the year that TAG introduced its first mechanical, automatic chronograph movement, Caliber 11. And it should be noted that this movement has nothing to do with the more controversial Caliber 1887. It is a tricompax chronograph (subdials at 9, 6 and 3 o’clock) and has a power reserve of 70 hours. There are no watches available with this movement yet, as TAG Heuer just recently announced it and officially opened the production facility. I can only hope it will do a perfect re-edition of some of the classic,
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Remember the uproar when it was revealed that TAG Heuer’s Caliber 1887 movement was based on a Seiko chronograph caliber? Even though TAG Heuer modified it, and is producing it in Switzerland, the word “Seiko” lit a fire under some diehard Swiss-watch fans. This year, TAG Heuer introduced another new chronograph movement, Caliber 1969. The caliber number refers to the year that TAG introduced its first mechanical, automatic chronograph movement, Caliber 11. And it should be noted that this movement has nothing to do with the more controversial Caliber 1887. It is a tricompax chronograph (subdials at 9, 6 and 3 o’clock) and has a power reserve of 70 hours. There are no watches available with this movement yet, as TAG Heuer just recently announced it and officially opened the production facility. I can only hope it will do a perfect re-edition of some of the classic,
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:06:31 μμ »6. Omega Caliber 9300
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In 2011, a few years after the introduction of its in-house-developed-and-produced Caliber 8500-family of movements, Omega introduced the Caliber 9300 chronograph movement, which was also entirely developed and manufactured in-house. This impressively large caliber has the brand’s renowned co-axial escapement, a column-wheel mechanism, and a silicon balance spring. The movement has a 60-hour power reserve. So far, Omega has only used Caliber 9300 in its Seamaster Planet Ocean chronographs and Speedmaster Caliber 9300 watches, including the Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon.” Caliber 9300 has a two-register layout in which the subdial at 3 o’clock shows both the recorded hours and minutes. This subdial can also be used as a second-time-zone indicator if used cleverly.
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In 2011, a few years after the introduction of its in-house-developed-and-produced Caliber 8500-family of movements, Omega introduced the Caliber 9300 chronograph movement, which was also entirely developed and manufactured in-house. This impressively large caliber has the brand’s renowned co-axial escapement, a column-wheel mechanism, and a silicon balance spring. The movement has a 60-hour power reserve. So far, Omega has only used Caliber 9300 in its Seamaster Planet Ocean chronographs and Speedmaster Caliber 9300 watches, including the Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon.” Caliber 9300 has a two-register layout in which the subdial at 3 o’clock shows both the recorded hours and minutes. This subdial can also be used as a second-time-zone indicator if used cleverly.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:04:53 μμ »5. A. Lange & Söhne L951.6
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Let’s go a bit high-end here, to end Part 1 of this list. The hand-wound Caliber L951.6 by A. Lange & Söhne powers the brand’s Datograph Auf/Ab timepiece and, as you can see from the photo, has an incredibly high level of finishing and craftsmanship. The balance bridge has that traditional Glashütte finish (hand-engraving) and all the movement parts are meticulously finished as well. All the parts — even the balance spring — are manufactured in-house. This particular movement consists of 451 parts, which means assembly is surely a painstaking job for Lange’s watchmakers in Germany. Although I have much respect and admiration for all Lange movements, the one in the Datograph Auf/Ab (Up/Down) movement is definitely one of my favorites.
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Let’s go a bit high-end here, to end Part 1 of this list. The hand-wound Caliber L951.6 by A. Lange & Söhne powers the brand’s Datograph Auf/Ab timepiece and, as you can see from the photo, has an incredibly high level of finishing and craftsmanship. The balance bridge has that traditional Glashütte finish (hand-engraving) and all the movement parts are meticulously finished as well. All the parts — even the balance spring — are manufactured in-house. This particular movement consists of 451 parts, which means assembly is surely a painstaking job for Lange’s watchmakers in Germany. Although I have much respect and admiration for all Lange movements, the one in the Datograph Auf/Ab (Up/Down) movement is definitely one of my favorites.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:03:36 μμ »4. Rolex 4130
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Before 2000, Rolex used hand-wound Valjoux Caliber 72 chronograph movements, and modified Zenith El Primero movements, for its Cosmograph Daytona watches. In 2000, Rolex introduced the successor to its Caliber 4030 movement (based on the El Primero), Rolex Caliber 4130. Fully developed and manufactured in-house, this automatic chronograph chronometer movement is solid as a rock and cleverly engineered. Rolex was able to reduce the number of components with a new, patented solution for the chronograph mechanism. The extra space has been used to house a larger mainspring, which increased the power-reserve capacity from 50 to 72 hours. A watchmaker from a local Rolex service center has also told me that the Daytona is quite easy for them to service thanks to this movement’s construction.
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Before 2000, Rolex used hand-wound Valjoux Caliber 72 chronograph movements, and modified Zenith El Primero movements, for its Cosmograph Daytona watches. In 2000, Rolex introduced the successor to its Caliber 4030 movement (based on the El Primero), Rolex Caliber 4130. Fully developed and manufactured in-house, this automatic chronograph chronometer movement is solid as a rock and cleverly engineered. Rolex was able to reduce the number of components with a new, patented solution for the chronograph mechanism. The extra space has been used to house a larger mainspring, which increased the power-reserve capacity from 50 to 72 hours. A watchmaker from a local Rolex service center has also told me that the Daytona is quite easy for them to service thanks to this movement’s construction.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:02:17 μμ »3. Lemania 2310
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Another Lemania, but very different than the 5100. This Lemania 2310 is perhaps better known under Omega’s “Caliber 321″ label, which was used in the very first Omega Speedmaster watches (click here). However, Omega wasn’t the only brand to use this Lemania column-wheel chronograph caliber. Even Patek Philippe used it for some of its chronograph watches, renaming it Caliber CH27-70. Of course, the Patek Philippe CH27-70 looked very different from the Omega Caliber 321 in terms of its finish, but both are based on that very same Lemania movement. Speedmaster fans crave the original Caliber 321, which Omega replaced in 1968 with Caliber 861 (also based on a Lemania movement), which had a lever mechanism instead of a column wheel.
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Another Lemania, but very different than the 5100. This Lemania 2310 is perhaps better known under Omega’s “Caliber 321″ label, which was used in the very first Omega Speedmaster watches (click here). However, Omega wasn’t the only brand to use this Lemania column-wheel chronograph caliber. Even Patek Philippe used it for some of its chronograph watches, renaming it Caliber CH27-70. Of course, the Patek Philippe CH27-70 looked very different from the Omega Caliber 321 in terms of its finish, but both are based on that very same Lemania movement. Speedmaster fans crave the original Caliber 321, which Omega replaced in 1968 with Caliber 861 (also based on a Lemania movement), which had a lever mechanism instead of a column wheel.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 13:01:06 μμ »2. Lemania 5100
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You don’t have to be a movement expert to see that this one is a rather ugly specimen. It has no column-wheel mechanism and it even has some plastic parts inside. The reason that I put this particular movement at number 2 is that it is a no-nonsense workhorse, with central second and minute chronograph hands (for easier reading), a 24-hour hand, and a day-date feature. This movement was discontinued a few years ago, which apparently brought a few chronograph collectors nearly to tears. Tutima is one of the brands that has used it for a very long time, even after the discontinuation of its production. Other brands that have used the Lemania 5100 include Omega (which calls it Caliber 1045), Sinn, Fortis, Porsche Design, and Alain Silberstein. Lemania also created its own chronograph watches in the past that contained this movement. Word is that Fortis, Sinn and Tutima used this particular movement because it was the only one at the time meeting military requirements for chronograph watches.
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You don’t have to be a movement expert to see that this one is a rather ugly specimen. It has no column-wheel mechanism and it even has some plastic parts inside. The reason that I put this particular movement at number 2 is that it is a no-nonsense workhorse, with central second and minute chronograph hands (for easier reading), a 24-hour hand, and a day-date feature. This movement was discontinued a few years ago, which apparently brought a few chronograph collectors nearly to tears. Tutima is one of the brands that has used it for a very long time, even after the discontinuation of its production. Other brands that have used the Lemania 5100 include Omega (which calls it Caliber 1045), Sinn, Fortis, Porsche Design, and Alain Silberstein. Lemania also created its own chronograph watches in the past that contained this movement. Word is that Fortis, Sinn and Tutima used this particular movement because it was the only one at the time meeting military requirements for chronograph watches.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 12:59:55 μμ »Top 10 Chronograph Movements
1. Zenith El Primero
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The El Primero was introduced in 1969 and the first two versions were Caliber 3019PHC (with chronograph and date) and Caliber 3019PHF (with triple date, moon-phase, and chronograph). This first automatic chronograph movement ever is a ‘fast ticker,’ with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). Most chronographs at the time of its introduction were ticking at 18,000 vph or 21,600 vph. The 36,000 vph makes it possible to time intervals to 1/10th of a second. The El Primero movement as we know it today is an evolution of the very first Caliber 3019 movements. Over time, we’ve seen several brands other than Zenith using El Primero chronograph movements, including Movado, TAG Heuer, Ebel, and even some Rolex Daytonas (though Rolex made some adjustments to it). If you are really into chronographs, you need at least one watch with this movement inside it.
1. Zenith El Primero
imagen jpg
The El Primero was introduced in 1969 and the first two versions were Caliber 3019PHC (with chronograph and date) and Caliber 3019PHF (with triple date, moon-phase, and chronograph). This first automatic chronograph movement ever is a ‘fast ticker,’ with a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). Most chronographs at the time of its introduction were ticking at 18,000 vph or 21,600 vph. The 36,000 vph makes it possible to time intervals to 1/10th of a second. The El Primero movement as we know it today is an evolution of the very first Caliber 3019 movements. Over time, we’ve seen several brands other than Zenith using El Primero chronograph movements, including Movado, TAG Heuer, Ebel, and even some Rolex Daytonas (though Rolex made some adjustments to it). If you are really into chronographs, you need at least one watch with this movement inside it.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 12:57:16 μμ »Lemania has produced many famous movements, including the following:
Manual Chronograph
1270/1275/1276/1277 - cam switched, 30 minute counter and 60 second subdials
1280/1281 - cam switched, 30 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials
1872 (1961) - cam switched, 30 minute and 60 second subdials
1873 - cam switched, 30 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, optional 24 hour display (aka Frank Mueller 1870, Omega 861/863, Universal Genève 84)
1874
1877 - Breitling Calibre 12
1883 (1983) - cam switched, 30 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, date and moon phase
1888 - (aka Ulysse Nardin UN 53)
5200/5250 - pillar wheel
2310/2320/2612 (1942) - pillar wheel, Patek Phillipe 2872 (2310) and CH 27-70 (2310), Omega 321 (2310), Vacheron Constantin 1141 (2320)
Automatic Chronograph
1340 - cam switched, 60 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, quickset date, 24 hour display
1341 - cam switched, 60 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, quickset date
1343 - cam switched, 60 minute and 60 second subdials, quickset date
1350 (1994) - cam switched
5100/5012 (1974) - pillar wheel, 60 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, quickset day and date, 24 hour display, hacking
LWO 283 - ETA 2892 with Dubois-Depraz chronograph module - BM 13283
Automatic time-only
8810/8815 (1991) - date and seconds (aka Ebel 080, Longines 990.2, Robergé MMR 3213)
8811/8816 - seconds
8812/8817 - date
8813/8818 - time only (aka Longines L987.2)
8831 - jumping hour
8840 - perpetual calendar
8875 - (aka Robergé MMR 3243)
2010 (1978) - Lassale
Manual Chronograph
1270/1275/1276/1277 - cam switched, 30 minute counter and 60 second subdials
1280/1281 - cam switched, 30 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials
1872 (1961) - cam switched, 30 minute and 60 second subdials
1873 - cam switched, 30 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, optional 24 hour display (aka Frank Mueller 1870, Omega 861/863, Universal Genève 84)
1874
1877 - Breitling Calibre 12
1883 (1983) - cam switched, 30 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, date and moon phase
1888 - (aka Ulysse Nardin UN 53)
5200/5250 - pillar wheel
2310/2320/2612 (1942) - pillar wheel, Patek Phillipe 2872 (2310) and CH 27-70 (2310), Omega 321 (2310), Vacheron Constantin 1141 (2320)
Automatic Chronograph
1340 - cam switched, 60 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, quickset date, 24 hour display
1341 - cam switched, 60 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, quickset date
1343 - cam switched, 60 minute and 60 second subdials, quickset date
1350 (1994) - cam switched
5100/5012 (1974) - pillar wheel, 60 minute and 12 hour counters and 60 second subdials, quickset day and date, 24 hour display, hacking
LWO 283 - ETA 2892 with Dubois-Depraz chronograph module - BM 13283
Automatic time-only
8810/8815 (1991) - date and seconds (aka Ebel 080, Longines 990.2, Robergé MMR 3213)
8811/8816 - seconds
8812/8817 - date
8813/8818 - time only (aka Longines L987.2)
8831 - jumping hour
8840 - perpetual calendar
8875 - (aka Robergé MMR 3243)
2010 (1978) - Lassale
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 12:51:10 μμ »Omega and Tissot
After the New York stock market crash of 1929 and the subsequent worldwide financial crisis, the market for watches collapsed. In 1930 Paul Tissot-Daguette was Managing Director of Omega. Under his leadership Tissot and Omega formed a joint marketing organisation, Société Suisse pour l'Industrie Horlogére (SSIH) so that between them they could produce a complete range of watches whilst maintaining separate companies.
The Omega and Tissot factories produced movements for both brands, the Omega factory specialising in more complex movements, such as some automatic self winding movements, and Tissot the simpler movements. Where essentially the same movements were produced in both factories, most parts are interchangeable. But there are usually some differences between Omega and Tissot variants to prevent swapping movements between brands by watchmakers. Usually the dimensions were sightly different, but as Tissot tended more to the medium price range, some Tissot details were cheaper, such as Omega using a balance spring with a Breguet overcoil, whereas the Tissot counterpart would have a flat balance spring.
After the New York stock market crash of 1929 and the subsequent worldwide financial crisis, the market for watches collapsed. In 1930 Paul Tissot-Daguette was Managing Director of Omega. Under his leadership Tissot and Omega formed a joint marketing organisation, Société Suisse pour l'Industrie Horlogére (SSIH) so that between them they could produce a complete range of watches whilst maintaining separate companies.
The Omega and Tissot factories produced movements for both brands, the Omega factory specialising in more complex movements, such as some automatic self winding movements, and Tissot the simpler movements. Where essentially the same movements were produced in both factories, most parts are interchangeable. But there are usually some differences between Omega and Tissot variants to prevent swapping movements between brands by watchmakers. Usually the dimensions were sightly different, but as Tissot tended more to the medium price range, some Tissot details were cheaper, such as Omega using a balance spring with a Breguet overcoil, whereas the Tissot counterpart would have a flat balance spring.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 12:43:26 μμ »IWC calibre 63 and calibre 64 movement
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All early IWC wristwatches use either the calibre 63 Lépine or calibre 64 Savonnette movement. These movements were the ideal size for a wristwatch. They first appear in the IWC movement and parts catalogue "Fournitures No. 1" dating from around 1891-92. These calibres use the same basic shapes for the plates and the escape and balance cocks, but laid out differently in the Lépine and Savonnette styles. The picture to the right shows this, and if you click on it you will get a larger version in a pop-up window which is clearer. Both of these movements are from Borgel wristwatches and so don't have long stems, but I have indicated where the stem is located. When a calibre 63 is used for a wristwatch the small seconds would be at 9 o'clock, so the small seconds are usually omitted in this configuration; the calibre 64 was used when small seconds were required.
IWC calibres 63 and 64
IWC Calibres 63 and 64
Click image to enlarge
Many of these calibre 63 and 64 movements were supplied to Stauffer & Co. of London who put them into wristwatch cases, and the movement in the picture is from one of these watches with a Borgel case. In this application they are made pin-set, that is they use a separate push piece to put the keyless work into the hand setting position, so were ideally suited to the Borgel case with its split stem which allowed the movement to screw into and unscrew from the case. Note that it is not the "S&Co. under a crown or " PEERLESS" stamped on the movement underneath the balance which identifies this as an IWC movement - those are trademarks which belong to Stauffer, Son & Co. and also appear on movements sourced by Stauffer from other manufacturers.
I first identified the movement pictured as an IWC calibre 64 by comparing the shapes of the plates and bridges with diagrams in IWC " Fournitures" catalogues, and the IWC museum have since confirmed that it is a genuine IWC calibre 64 movement listed in their records. However, because it was supplied to Stauffer as a bare movement, IWC will not issue an "extract from the archives" for the watch as they did not supply the case.
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All early IWC wristwatches use either the calibre 63 Lépine or calibre 64 Savonnette movement. These movements were the ideal size for a wristwatch. They first appear in the IWC movement and parts catalogue "Fournitures No. 1" dating from around 1891-92. These calibres use the same basic shapes for the plates and the escape and balance cocks, but laid out differently in the Lépine and Savonnette styles. The picture to the right shows this, and if you click on it you will get a larger version in a pop-up window which is clearer. Both of these movements are from Borgel wristwatches and so don't have long stems, but I have indicated where the stem is located. When a calibre 63 is used for a wristwatch the small seconds would be at 9 o'clock, so the small seconds are usually omitted in this configuration; the calibre 64 was used when small seconds were required.
IWC calibres 63 and 64
IWC Calibres 63 and 64
Click image to enlarge
Many of these calibre 63 and 64 movements were supplied to Stauffer & Co. of London who put them into wristwatch cases, and the movement in the picture is from one of these watches with a Borgel case. In this application they are made pin-set, that is they use a separate push piece to put the keyless work into the hand setting position, so were ideally suited to the Borgel case with its split stem which allowed the movement to screw into and unscrew from the case. Note that it is not the "S&Co. under a crown or " PEERLESS" stamped on the movement underneath the balance which identifies this as an IWC movement - those are trademarks which belong to Stauffer, Son & Co. and also appear on movements sourced by Stauffer from other manufacturers.
I first identified the movement pictured as an IWC calibre 64 by comparing the shapes of the plates and bridges with diagrams in IWC " Fournitures" catalogues, and the IWC museum have since confirmed that it is a genuine IWC calibre 64 movement listed in their records. However, because it was supplied to Stauffer as a bare movement, IWC will not issue an "extract from the archives" for the watch as they did not supply the case.
Στάλθηκε από: george_
« στις: Ιούλιος 26, 2015, 12:41:54 μμ »Longines 13.34 movement
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ntroduced in 1910, the Longines 13.34 movement was used in many Longines wristwatches during the Great War. Often, like this one, they do not carry the name Longines visibly, but they are quite easy to identify. The calibre number 13.34 is stamped on the bottom plate and is visible next to the escape wheel. If you click on the picture and get an enlarged view you should be able to see this just inside the case screw next to the copper coloured dot that is the end of a dial foot. You should also be able to make out the B & Co. mark of Baume & Co., Longines agent in the UK for many years. Failing that, the shape of the plates and bridges is very distinctive — although there is also a variant with the same barrel bridge shape but the three individual cocks of the third, fourth and escape wheels fused into a single bridge.
The Longines 13.34 movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph) giving five ticks per second. It has a straight line Swiss lever escapement, a cut bimetallic temperature compensation balance, and a steel balance spring with a Breguet overcoil.
Even the lowest grade 13.34 movements had 15 jewels, the movement shown in the picture here has an extra three jewels, taking the jewel count to 18. The three extra jewels are a jewel bearing for the centre wheel top pivot, and two cap jewels for the escape wheel; the polished steel setting for the top escape wheel cap jewel stands out in the picture. The visible train jewels are set in "chatons", metal settings that are fixed in place with small screws.
When jewels were first used in the eighteenth century it was found difficult to make the jewel an exact size on its outer diameter with the hole exactly in the centre, so pierced jewels were set into metal settings called that could then be turned so that their outside was the desired diameter and concentric with the hole. Early jewels were often made from small pieces of gem stone that had been cut from a larger stone in the process of shaping and polishing it. These small pieces were called "kittens" by the gem cutters, or in French "chatons", which is how these settings came to be called by this name. By the time this movement was made the techniques of jewel grinding had advanced and the metal settings were no longer necessary, but they look good and so "top of the range" movements such as the Longines movement in the picture were fitted with them. They were an expensive piece of window dressing that had no effect on the going of the watch, and that is why they are only fitted to the visible top holes, the ones the customer sees; the jewels in the bottom holes were rubbed in as usual.
imagenes gratis
ntroduced in 1910, the Longines 13.34 movement was used in many Longines wristwatches during the Great War. Often, like this one, they do not carry the name Longines visibly, but they are quite easy to identify. The calibre number 13.34 is stamped on the bottom plate and is visible next to the escape wheel. If you click on the picture and get an enlarged view you should be able to see this just inside the case screw next to the copper coloured dot that is the end of a dial foot. You should also be able to make out the B & Co. mark of Baume & Co., Longines agent in the UK for many years. Failing that, the shape of the plates and bridges is very distinctive — although there is also a variant with the same barrel bridge shape but the three individual cocks of the third, fourth and escape wheels fused into a single bridge.
The Longines 13.34 movement operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph) giving five ticks per second. It has a straight line Swiss lever escapement, a cut bimetallic temperature compensation balance, and a steel balance spring with a Breguet overcoil.
Even the lowest grade 13.34 movements had 15 jewels, the movement shown in the picture here has an extra three jewels, taking the jewel count to 18. The three extra jewels are a jewel bearing for the centre wheel top pivot, and two cap jewels for the escape wheel; the polished steel setting for the top escape wheel cap jewel stands out in the picture. The visible train jewels are set in "chatons", metal settings that are fixed in place with small screws.
When jewels were first used in the eighteenth century it was found difficult to make the jewel an exact size on its outer diameter with the hole exactly in the centre, so pierced jewels were set into metal settings called that could then be turned so that their outside was the desired diameter and concentric with the hole. Early jewels were often made from small pieces of gem stone that had been cut from a larger stone in the process of shaping and polishing it. These small pieces were called "kittens" by the gem cutters, or in French "chatons", which is how these settings came to be called by this name. By the time this movement was made the techniques of jewel grinding had advanced and the metal settings were no longer necessary, but they look good and so "top of the range" movements such as the Longines movement in the picture were fitted with them. They were an expensive piece of window dressing that had no effect on the going of the watch, and that is why they are only fitted to the visible top holes, the ones the customer sees; the jewels in the bottom holes were rubbed in as usual.