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Αυτό το τμήμα σας επιτρέπει να δείτε όλα τα μηνύματα που στάλθηκαν από αυτόν τον χρήστη. Σημειώστε ότι μπορείτε να δείτε μόνο μηνύματα που στάλθηκαν σε περιοχές που αυτήν την στιγμή έχετε πρόσβαση.


Θέματα - chris5

Σελίδες: [1] 2
1
Vs(versus) / Grand Seiko vs Swiss Luxury
« στις: Οκτώβριος 15, 2015, 20:54:34 μμ »
Επισης θα ηθελα να συμπληρωσω,οτι καποιες εταιρειες δημιουργουν καλυτερα ρολογια σε ποιοτητα π.χ στο φινιρισμα 'η στο μηχανισμο,οποτε ειναι ατοπο να τα συγκρινεις με ρολογια πολυ πιο υποδεεστερα με αυτα π.χ ενα Grand Seiko SBGH 001 με εναν Ναυτιλο απο την Patek Philippe.

2
Ελβετικές εταιρείες / Christophe Claret
« στις: Αύγουστος 08, 2015, 10:10:43 πμ »
CHRISTOPHE CLARET Allegro
 
What a journey! Christophe Claret graduated from the Geneva Watchmaking School, trained under Roger Dubuis and founded the brand that bears his name in Le Locle in 1989. He started out working for major brands and ended up unveiling the DualTow in 2009 which we still remember today. This watch symbolised the dawn of the Christophe Claret brand. Next came the X-TREM 1, Blackjack, Adagio, Soprano and Margot. The watchmaker has added a new piece to his Traditional Complications collection: the Allegro. This minute repeater has cathedral gongs, so-called because they coil twice around the movement rimming the case. The gongs are made of drawn steel and fitted with a patented mechanism that prevents vibration and interference to produce a unique sound. The manual wind movement also brings to life the date, GMT and day/night indicator functions. It comes in rose gold or grey with titanium. Limited edition (20 of each model available). Price: 268’000 CHF (excl. VAT)


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3

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This month Panerai opened its first ever flagship store in the United States and I was lucky enough to go down to see the boutique for myself. The 2,200 square foot boutique is located in the heart of the Miami Design District – the innovative neighborhood being developed by Dacra, founded by entrepreneur Craig Robbins, and L Real Estate, a global real estate and development fund.


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The Miami Design District development is special in that it partners with prominent architects and artists to design the buildings and retail spaces. Each space is unique and creates an overall experience for the shopper. The Panerai boutique is located in an area called Palm Court, along with several other luxury brands such as Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Hublot, and Piaget (to name a few). The boutique is in a blue reinforced glass structure designed by Sou Fujimoto, who is known for his delicate and strong structures that deal with the concept of light. The facade is inspired by Miami’s frequent and powerful rainstorms and is majestic to see in person. Palm Court also features a sculpture of Le Corbusier by Xavier Veilhan (below left – Le Corbusier was one of the most influential architects of the 20th century, and was born in the Canton of Neuchâtel, by the way, where Panerai's manufacture is located) and Buckminster Fuller’s Fly’s Eye Dome (below right), which is also the entrance to the underground parking lot.


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The interior of two-story Panerai boutique was designed by Patricia Urquiola (pictured above with Mr. Bonati), a Spanish architect who worked closely with Panerai in creating a welcoming space that marries the technical aspect of watchmaking with Panerai’s deep marine history. The space is a luxurious mix of deep brown and caramel tones with brass accents. The designer used rich materials such as veined marble, brass, and wood to align with Panerai’s Florentine origins. Upon entering the store you immediately notice the height of the ceiling and the over-sized floating “chandelier” that is made up of oversized, suspended movement parts.


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An equally impressive accent, is that the entire left-hand wall is made of ridged mirrored glass to mimic the sea, further playing up the nautical design inspiration. The other features of the first floor space, like the watch cases, are all nautical themed with porthole-shaped glass vitrines and displays. In the back right-hand corner, next to the stairs encased by brass bars, is an original Frogman diving suit.


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The second floor boasts a private seating area and massive outdoor patio, and is designed to host events and art exhibitions to tie in with the artistic purpose of the Design District. But the coolest part, is the oversized Panerai Marina wall clock. This is where I had the pleasure of sitting down with Panerai CEO Mr. Bonati himself. I was able to ask him a series of questions regarding the boutique, the future of Panerai and his personal love of sailing. Read on for more.


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What inspired your initial interest in watches, and how did you get started?


The “tick tock” [of a watch]. I heard the “tick tock tick tock” so I tried to open it. It was a small pocket watch that was my grandfather’s watch. I still have the watch, it doesn’t work anymore because when I tried to open it, I destroyed it.

What do you think is most engaging about Miami?


Frankly, I am not able to answer precisely, but every time I land in Miami I feel something exciting. It is a city that excites me, and not for the entertainment, that of course that is very important for the 20s, but that is not for me. It is modern and there is a dynamism [to Miami], it is very dynamic. It is different than New York and San Francisco, they are old compared to Miami. Miami has a lot of vibrancy and it is growing quickly.


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Why did you decide to build your boutique in the Miami Design District?


Because we bet on this place and the project. It is an important project for Miami because Miami is the another center of culture full of contemporary art and design. And given that Panerai believes very strongly in design, so we thought, why not here(…). I think it was the best choice.

What is your vision for the future of Panerai?


Twenty years ago, it was our goal to establish a brand. To create a brand that was timeless brand. If you are in the luxury, you must be timeless [in order] to have a strong [and] constant brand. As a manager you have to work in order to prepare for other people to come and to work and develop [your brand]. That is why we [started to] create an in-house movement, that is why we built a 10,000 square meter facility, and that is why we continue act always in communications. That is why we have the classic yacht, because the classic yachts are linked to the watch-maker because you need competencies [sic], you need passion, it is timeless, and they are all values you can find in our brand and in our watches. On the other side, there is history, the family, the values, Florence, and we are lucky because we have a lot of this. And when a client comes in to buy a watch, they are getting more than just a watch.


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What do you prefer more, watches or sailing?


Good question, but you forgot one - golf! [laughs] What I prefer? I think they compliment each other. I started to play golf four years ago because I had my boat off the coast of Italy, and in the morning there is no wind so you have to wait until 1-2 in the afternoon. So I go to play golf in the morning and then I sail in the afternoon!

What is your favorite thing about your job --what do you enjoy most and why?


The satisfaction of my clients, to see them very happy. To see the people that work for me happy and perform well. And to see what we built in 20 years. When I started it was one office with a plant and it was very poor because I didn’t water it enough. And the goal was to think about what to do. And now we have empty 600 people. Plus another 250 people who work indirectly for Panerai. When you have all those people they contribute to create value and you can contribute with the work and having a job. But when you get up in the morning [to get ready for work] and shave your face, you have to do a good job because you have people depending on you.
 
What watch are you wearing right now?

I am testing this watch playing golf right now. It is the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Accaio - 45 mm with the micro-rotor movement. Sometimes you have to test using it in a strong way [sic]. It fell down twice on a hard surface, and my [golf swing] is very powerful despite my ball going the other way, but until now the watch works very well.


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What is your advice to new watch collectors?


I cannot say that I am a collector. What is it to be called a collector? 1 watch, 3 watches, 10 watches, 30 watches? To be a collector you have to define what a collector is.  In my opinion a collector is someone who loves all watches and follows the dream to own a watch. And when you are able to satisfy your dream, you’re a collector.

What is your favorite current Panerai model?


It is difficult to answer you because it is like a father choosing his favorite son. The iconic Luminor Marina is always the most popular though.


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There are a number of female Panerai owners. Did you plan on marketing towards women buyers?


I never planned to do something for ladies, but I planned to do watches. If a woman wants to buy my watches, I think that is great.


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Panerai continued to impress this year, with a collection of novelties that displayed innovative materials such as the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech. But the brand also turned to stainless steel, its material par excellence, to introduce a new limited edition equation of time.


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The equation of time complication is a rare, but wonderful sight, and Panerai’s linear sliding scale is perhaps the most recognizable and most practical interpretation of it. Displayed at 6 o’clock, it shows the difference between the mean time indicated by a watch and the true time indicated by the solar meridian – which can fluctuate during the course of the year between plus and minus 16 and 14 minutes. When the date and the month are set on the watch, this difference in time shows automatically on the equation of time display.

The watch also features running seconds at 9 o’clock, as well as a date and month indication at 3 o’clock set against a black dial. Note the unusual display of the months, which are cleverly set in a circular shape, from December (D) through March (M), June (J), September (S) and back to December.


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Offered in “Acciaio,” Italian for stainless steel, this limited edition watch comes inside a vintage-inspired polished case that contrasts wonderfully with the brushed-finish of the brand’s distinctive crown-protecting device.
On the wrist, the 47mm Luminor case will be familiar to paneristis – the brand’s most faithful group of collectors. And while it may sound rather large for those who are not part of that exclusive group yet, the sides sweep back gracefully to make it feel less imposing.


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The Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio houses caliber P.2002/E, a new hand-wound mechanical movement based on the brand’s original P.2002 caliber presented in 2005. Made up of 328 parts, it beats at 28,000bph, and has a power reserve of 192 hours, or 8 days. The new in-house caliber can be admired through the sapphire case back, just as the watch’s power reserve indicator, located at 4 o’clock on the movement side.

A limited edition of 100 pieces, the Panerai Luminor 1950 Equation of Time 8 Days Acciaio comes with an antique brown alligator strap with ecru stitching.

By Arthur Touchot

5
Στην αγορά κυκλοφορούν πολλά ρολόγια που δεν είναι αυθεντικά, ειδικά σε γνωστές μάρκες όπως είναι η Rolex και το βίντεο από τους Images Jewelers στο YouTube έρχεται να μας διαφωτίσει σχετικά.

Ένα από τα στοιχεία που πρέπει να προσέξει κανείς είναι το εάν έχει μηχανικό μηχανισμό ή Quartz, κάτι το οποίο μπορεί να καταλάβει κανείς από τον χαρακτηριστικό ρυθμό με τον οποίο κινείται ο δείκτης των δευτερολέπτων. Ένα Rolex δεν θα έχει ποτέ quartz μηχανισμό. Ένα άλλο στοιχείο είναι το βάρος της κάσας του ρολογιού, όταν κανείς φορά το ρολόι στο χέρι του. Θα πρέπει να νιώθει ότι το ρολόι έχει στιβαρή κατασκευή και βάρος στο χέρι.

Η κορώνα είναι ένα ακόμα στοιχείο που θα πρέπει να προσέξει ο επίδοξος αγοραστής ενός Rolex, όπου στο αυθεντικό μοντέλο, έχει γίνει περίτεχνος σχεδιασμός της κορώνας, με ανάγλυφο σχεδιασμό. Ένα άλλο χαρακτηριστικό στοιχείο ενός αυθεντικού Rolex είναι το Cyclops lens που μεγενθύνει την ένδειξη της ημερομηνίας στο καντράν. Στα περισσότερα ψεύτικα Rolex αυτό δεν συμβαίνει.

Ειδικά όσοι επιλέγετε να ψωνίσετε το ρολόι σας από το Διαδίκτυο, θα πρέπει να είστε πολύ προσεκτικοί και να μην παρασύρεστε από τυχόν προσφορές και χαμηλές τιμές.

Δείτε και το ακόλουθο βίντεο.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bb2Jb5AtuKA

6
Things could be worse: a sunny summer day, a speedy convertible and a cool IWC watch. The car is the Mercedes SLS AMG Roadster. The watch is also an AMG, of sorts: the Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic, introduced last year in honor of IWC’s sponsorship of the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula 1 team. It seems fitting that we test the AMG watch while test driving an AMG car, so here we are at AMG headquarters in Affalterbach, Germany, ready to take car and watch for a spin.

First, we’re briefed about the locations of nearby speed traps. Then, we’re asked to return the $200,000-plus car unscathed. No problem, we promise.

We spend the morning shooting photos of the watch in and around the parked roadster, so we have time to scrutinize all the IWC’s details.


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The metallic brown of the dial contrasts beautifully with the matte black ceramic case and the shiny black ceramic bezel, which look every bit as high-tech as the five eye-catching screws with special heads on the front of the watch. The warm color of the dial, the beige-orange luminous material on the indices and hands and the leather-inlay strap add a very special touch to this otherwise technical-looking watch – like a brown leather sofa in front of an exposed-concrete wall.

The SLS’s interior was designed in the same mode: the air vents and gear-selector lever are milled from aluminum and are inspired by jet engines and throttle controls. The rest of the interior boasts plenty of plush upholstery.

The watch’s indices are shaped like miniature racecars, with high tail-end spoilers on their outer ends.

Now it’s time for our test drive. The convertible top disappears behind the seats and a roaring eight-cylinder fanfare trumpets from the tailpipes when we press the start button. Wow! We forget all about the Ingenieur’s quiet ticking when we hear that. Even the 1,000-watt surround-sound system from Bang & Olufsen becomes a trifling matter, but we switch it on anyway.


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The SLS AMG is easy to drive: we simply shift the selector lever to “D” and enjoy a smooth and rather comfortably suspended ride both on straight stretches and around curves. The Ingenieur is equally user-friendly: the crown is easy to grasp, unscrew and pull out, despite the crown protectors. A stop-seconds hand and a rapid-reset mechanism for the date simplify exact setting.

At long last, we reach the autobahn, leaving speed limits behind. We press the pedal to the metal and the engine emits a sound like a jet taking off. The photographer, sitting in the passenger’s seat, clings anxiously to his camera. From zero to 60 in 3.7 seconds makes you feel as if you’ve just kicked a giant. The speedometer soon reaches 100 mph. Even at this speed, the wind blowing through our hair is more or less endurable. The photographer is no doubt relieved to discover there is too much traffic on the autobahn for us to safely accelerate to the car’s incredible top speed of 200 mph.


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Of course, unlike cars, watches are judged not by how fast they go but by how precisely. After our ride, with the help of a timing machine, we find the Ingenieur to be precise indeed. With an average daily gain of just 1.8 seconds, the Ingenieur AMG comes quite close to achieving optimal performance. The greatest deviation among positions, six seconds, is more than acceptable. The amplitude of the balance is fairly stable between flat and hanging positions.


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The Ingenieur’s dial is easy to read. The indices and the two numerals ensure adequate orientation and the double-digit minutes numerals on the flange above the hour indices are surprisingly helpful. You can tell the time quickly, even while you’re driving through a tunnel, although the dial’s luminosity weakens if the watch is in the dark for a long time.

At the moment, though, in the blazing sunshine, there’s no need to worry about luminosity. We’ve found the switch to operate the car’s adaptive adjustable suspension. We choose “sport plus” and steer through the curves at breakneck speed. The suspension in this setting is so hard that the Ingenieur is challenged to cushion the impacts with its serpentine rotor bridge, designed to absorb shocks. We’re also pleased that despite this watch’s diameter of 46 mm, its strap clings as closely and as comfortably to our wrist as does the racing seat of the SLS to its driver. Nothing presses uncomfortably against the wrist, and the strap’s rubber inner surface feels as soft and supple as the roadster’s Alcantara upholstery.


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We pull over for a quick break in a shady spot, and this gives us a chance to take a closer look at the strap and clasp, where we discover a shortcoming, at least in warm weather: the seam wicks perspiration from the wrist to the strap’s prettily grained leather inlay, which causes the inlay to darken along its edges. The buckle is pronged and made of matte titanium rather than ceramic, but it’s nevertheless a good match for the watch. The buckle is easy to use and doesn’t feel unduly thick, thanks to the beveled slits in the strap.

The ceramic of the watch’s case has a hardness of 1,350 on the Vickers scale and is six times as scratch resistant as steel. On the other hand, it will break when subjected to just one-tenth as much force as would permanently deform steel. Shattered cases are nonetheless rare. The cases are made by Formatec Technical Ceramics of the Netherlands.

The movement is made in house. It’s the Caliber 80110, which IWC introduced at the time of the relaunch of the Ingenieur collection in 2005. It incorporates the Pellaton pawl winding system and Triovis fine adjustment. The movement is scantily embellished; the surfaces aren’t polished and the edges aren’t beveled.

The rotor on our test watch is blackened and various decorative patterns are available.


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Unlike earlier Ingenieur models, this one does not incorporate a soft-iron Faraday cage to protect the movement from magnetic fields. Leaving it out enabled the designers to make the watch thinner and to incorporate a transparent back. Given the lack of protection, we were glad that the lateral loudspeakers of the SLS’s sound system are installed somewhat higher up, where the watch won’t come too close to them when you rest your forearm on the armrest.

The watch’s styling alludes to the Ingenieur SL by Gérald Genta from the 1970s, a sporty luxury watch with an integrated metal bracelet and five holes on its bezel. With the collection’s 2005 relaunch, the case took on a more angular shape and the numerals on the dial their current look. Crown protectors have been a familiar feature since 2009, when they appeared on the Ingenieur Mission Earth. The screws on the bezel, which replace the five holes, are new. They’re not merely decorative: they penetrate all the way through to affix the bezel and the back to the middle piece of the case. Their unusually shaped heads through to affix the bezel and the back to the middle piece of the case. Their unusually shaped heads are examples of the watch’s good craftsmanship.

Exclusiveness is important for both luxury cars and luxury watches. Pricing is one way to achieve it. Plan to spend $12,300 for the IWC Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic, a sum about equal to the surcharge for the SLS’s optional ceramic brakes. This comparison is pretty much the only one that can make this watch seem like a bargain. One has a right to expect more embellishments in such a costly watch, especially on its movement. But who would talk about money when he’s cruising along in a superlative sports car and wearing a cool watch? If you can afford the SLS, we would recommend that you opt for the version without ceramic brakes, and use the money you save to buy the ceramic Ingenieur.

Sadly, the time has come to return the SLS, to electrically close its roof and hand over the keys. Our homeward journey in an old VW Passat brings us back to reality, but we’re consoled by knowing we’ll be able to wear the Ingenieur for a few more days.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: IWC Schaffhausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, CH-8201 Schaffhausen, Switzerland
Reference number: IW322504 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, stop-seconds function
Movement: Manufacture Caliber 80110, automatic, 28,800 vph, 28 jewels, Kif shock absorption, Triovis fine adjustment, 44-hour power reserve, diameter = 30 mm, height = 7.26 mm
Case: Ceramic case with flat sapphire crystal that is nonreflective on both sides, screwed ceramic crown, five screws to secure the back, sapphire caseback, water resistant to 120 m
Strap and clasp: Rubber strap with leather inlay and titanium pronged buckle
Rate results: (Deviations in seconds per 24 hours) Dial up -1 Dial down +3 Crown up +1 Crown down +5 Crown left +2 Crown right +1 Greatest deviation of rate 6 Average deviation +1.8
Average amplitude: Flat positions 291° Hanging positions 262° Dimensions: Diameter = 46 mm, height = 14.5 mm, weight = 142 g
Price: $12,300

SCORES:
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): The strap, made of rubber, has an attractive leather inlay and is well crafted, as is the matte titanium pronged buckle. 8
Operation (5): The crown, made of ceramic, can be easily unscrewed, pulled out and turned. The watch has stop- seconds and rapid-reset functions. 5
Case (10): Love of detail is evident in the unconventional screw heads and in the alternately polished and matte surfaces. The ceramic case is scratch resistant. 9
Design (15): The play between coolly technical design and warm colors and surfaces works well and makes the Ingenieur an unusual watch. 14
Legibility (5): Bold indices, numerals and hands ensure that the time is easy to read. Plenty of luminous material helps at night, but the glow doesn’t last very long. 5
Wearing comfort (10): Despite its large size, this watch fits comfortably and snugly around the wrist. 9
Movement (20): This manufacture caliber earns kudos for its pawl winding and shock absorption to protect its rotor, but the fine adjustment for the index and the embellishments are merely on ETA’s level. 16
Rate results (10): The results were good, with a slight average daily gain and no unduly large deviations among the various positions. 8
Overall value (15): The craftsmanship is good, the case is ceramic and the movement is made in house, but the price is nonetheless high. 10
TOTAL: 84 POINTS

This article originally appeared in the January-February 2014 issue of WatchTime. Original photography by Nik Schölzel.

7
Ελβετικές εταιρείες / Cecil Purnell
« στις: Ιούλιος 07, 2015, 23:06:26 μμ »
Cecil Purnell Double Tourbillon V15 White Gold


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Ελβετικές εταιρείες / Briston
« στις: Ιούλιος 07, 2015, 23:03:17 μμ »
Briston Clubmaster Sport Acetat


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Ελβετικές εταιρείες / Manufacture Royale
« στις: Ιούλιος 07, 2015, 22:57:18 μμ »
Manufacture Royale 1770 Micromegas double flying tourbillon double Tempo


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10
Η αγορά ενός ρολογιού δεν είναι μια απλή υπόθεση, ειδικά εάν θέλει κανείς να επενδύσει ένα σημαντικό ποσό σε ένα ρολόι Omega.
Μετά από το βίντεο που δημοσιεύσαμε σχετικά με το πώς μπορεί κανείς να διακρίνει ένα αυθεντικό rolex σε σχέση με ένα ψεύτικο, δημοσιεύουμε εδώ ένα αναλυτικό βίντεο που μας δείχνει τα στοιχεία που πιστοποιούν ότι ένα ρολόι της Omega είναι αυθεντικό.
Το βίντεο προέρχεται από το κανάλι Swiss Made του YouTube και μας δείχνει μερικά από τα βασικά στοιχεία αυθεντικότητας ενός Omega. Δεν είναι μόνο η αίσθηση της ποιότητας και πολυτελούς κατασκευής που αποπνέει ένα Omega, ή το βάρος της κάσας του, καθώς η Omega έχει προβεί σε αρκετές κινήσεις που πιστοποιούν την αυθεντικότητα των ρολογιών της, όπως είναι ο μικρός αριθμός στις βάσεις σύνδεσης της κάσας με το λουράκι ή το μπρασελέ, ο οποίος πρέπει να ταιριάζει με εκείνον που συνοδεύει τα έντυπα πιστοποίησης γνησιότητας που συνοδεύουν ένα αυθεντικό Omega.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9h3UnV9xjdE

πηγη:Chronos Plus

11
Το νεο μου ρολοι-reviews / Seiko SRP313
« στις: Μάιος 29, 2015, 10:43:34 πμ »

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Χτεσινη φωτο.
Λοιπον παμε στην παρουσιαση.
Ειναι ενα Σεικο ρολοι στα 42,5 mm, επαγγελματικο καταδυτικο και με καουτσουκ λουρακι.
Αυτα.
Α,ειναι και αυτοματο.
Το λενε και "shark monster".
 :D

12
Προτάσεις αγοράς ρολογιών / Βlackout Concept Geneve
« στις: Μάιος 24, 2015, 20:55:23 μμ »
Για οποιον θελει να κανει καποια `μοντιφα`στο Ελβετικο του ρολοι,αυτο είναι το κατάστημα που του ταιριαζει:

http://www.blackoutconcept.com/en/custom-watches/panerai

13
Το νεο μου ρολοι-reviews / PAM 510
« στις: Απρίλιος 01, 2015, 22:13:24 μμ »
Όπως θα δειτε και παρακατω,ειναι ένα κουρδιστο ρολοι στα 44μμ.
Εχει μηχανισμο διαρκειας φορτισης 8 ημερων.
Α,φωσφοριζει και το βραδυ. :)


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50 ατομα δεν μιλαει κανεις. ::)
Ας ανοιξω εγω το θεμα.
Η επικεφαλιδα τα λεει ολα.
Προτεινω ημερομηνια την 19/12 δηλαδη την επομενη Παρασκευη.
Μερος το ιδιο με το περσινο?

15
Δώρο 2014 / The eagle has landed
« στις: Δεκέμβριος 06, 2014, 12:17:43 μμ »

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Προχθες ποσταρα ενα τραγουδακι των Saxon.
Κανεις δεν καταλαβε τι εννοουσα.
Κυριοι ας αναστατωσω το ΣΚ σας.
Μου επιτρεπετε?


Σελίδες: [1] 2