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Αρχείο θεμάτων => Ιστορια-Μηχανισμοι => Μήνυμα ξεκίνησε από: Alexandros00 στις Οκτώβριος 07, 2022, 16:53:03 μμ
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There's a reason that Swiss watch movements are the industry standard: they're renowned for their general quality, reliability and precision. Probably (arguably) many of the "best" watch movements in the world are Swiss, whether that means the most complicated, most accurate, have the best finishing or even offer the best value. (Debate amongst yourselves.) The movements we're talking about here, however, are those made by companies that supply them to watch brands.
Is a Swiss watch movement 100 percent Swiss?
When a watch qualifies for the Swiss Made label, it means that its movement also has. Specifically, 50 percent of the value of its parts must be generated in Switzerland (excluding assembly), and 60 percent of its overall manufacturing costs. Many exceed those criteria, while others might make special efforts to meet them. It's worth noting that a "Swiss Made" watch will have a Swiss movement inside, but it's not necessarily the other way around: a watch with a Swiss movement doesn't necessarily meet the other criteria for the label.
What is a watch movement clone, and should I care?
There are certain very robust and popular movements of which other companies have essentially made their own copies, and they're referred to as "clones." These shouldn't be understood as fakes, and they're completely legal. The most commonly cloned movement is the ETA 2824 movement which was introduced in 1982 and for which the patents have expired.
The movements other companies have produced based on ETA's design (sometimes with minor tweaks) can be perfectly legitimate and are not necessarily inferior. They might now be bursting with originality, but they offer watchmakers a canvas for creativity. The Sellita SW-200 movement is a common example of an ETA 2824 clone, and there are plenty of others.
What's in a watch movement's name?
Prestigious Swiss brands nowadays are increasingly phasing out third-party movements in favor of their own in-house ones. Many, however, continue to use movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita. It's been a common practice for a brand to make some minor modifications to a movement (this can mean significant modifications to something as simple as decorating its rotor) and give it a completely new name — leaving the consumer unaware that the movement doesn't come directly from the brand. Although this practice is fading, it's still worth researching the movement when considering a new watch. (Websites like Caliber Corner, Grail Watch Reference and WatchBase can be useful resources.)
The following list of movement makers isn't exhaustive, but it represents the most important companies for casual watch consumers to understand.
ETA
A historic company, ETA has a massive and important presence in the watch industry and is today part of the Swatch Group. You'll find time-only, automatic movements like the ETA 2824 or thinner and slightly more premium ETA 2892 powering watches of many types, at a range of price points. The company Valjoux was acquired and integrated into ETA, and the Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement is, according to Jason Heaton, "a timekeeping icon." Each of the movements above also comes in variations that offer different functionality, and they're the most commonly cloned movements.
Today, ETA supplies only Swatch Group brands (such as Hamilton, Tissot, Longines, Rado and others) with newly upgraded versions of the movements mentioned above. They go by names such as Powermatic 80 or H-10, and ETA doesn't sell them to brands outside the Swatch Group.
Sellita
Sellita's primary products offer alternatives to the most common and popular ETA movements — and it plays an important role in the watch industry as the primary supplier of ETA-equivalent movements to brands that ETA no longer supplies. The Sellita SW200, SW300 and SW500 series movements are considered clones of the ETA 2824, 2892 and 7750 movements, respectively. They're considered so similar and interchangeable, a watch might be sometimes said to have an "ETA or Sellita" movement.
You should be just as happy with a Sellita movement as one of the above-mentioned ETAs, but they don't yet offer an equivalent of the newer, upgraded movements ETA supplies to Swatch Group brands. You'll find Sellita movements powering watches from microbrands and established Swiss companies alike.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221007/262d8b9ddf7cd13378c304207c6492c5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221007/e9f19c78f349f0e2e2adce493ebef310.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221007/c22a4ee8ce63fdf9c92e51a115bea0ab.jpg)
Στάλθηκε από το SM-N986B μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
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....εμείς, όχι ξέρουμε ξένα :(
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....αλλά, μας το εξήγησε η νοσοκόμα στο ΚΑΠΗ. ;)
Τώρα, μπορούμε να αποφύγουμε να διαλέξουμε κάποιο ρολόι, που θα μας το πουλάνε 4-5-6.000, ενώ θα έχει μηχανή από άλλο κατασκευαστή, που την βρίσκουμε σε άλλα με κλάσμα της τιμής.(https://www.greekwatchforum.gr/Smileys/new_2020/thumbsup.gif)