Αποστολέας Θέμα: Watchmaking Personalities  (Αναγνώστηκε 375 φορές)

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Αποσυνδεδεμένος Alexandros00

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Watchmaking Personalities
« στις: Οκτώβριος 01, 2023, 18:02:57 μμ »
Kari Voutilainen
Του έχει δοθεί το προσωνυμιο " master of
finissage"

At the end of a bumpy, winding forest road on the border between canton Neuchâtel and France, the old Chapeau de Napoléon restaurant overlooks the Val-de-Travers region. At an altitude of almost 1,000 metres, high upon a mountain whose very form evokes the cocked hat of the famous French emperor, the view over the village of Fleurier and its renowned watchmaking companies Parmigiani, Chopard and Vaucher is spectacular.

In the parking lot in front of the building he has bought and completely renovated to accommodate his 30 employees, Kari Voutilainen welcomes us with a warm handshake. Wearing a grey polo shirt, eyeglass on his forehead, he is laid back and smiling. Although his name rings like a promise of a Scandinavian blizzard, Voutilainen does not come across as the cold and silent character often associated with northern Europeans.

Voutilainen could in some ways be described as the Lionel Messi of fine watchmaking. To his credit are no fewer than eight prizes at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, one of the most prestigious award ceremonies in the industry. His timepieces are snapped up around the globe by wealthy collectors, most notably in the United States, and at stratospheric prices. ‘Entry-level’ watches for his eponymous brand will set you back at least 75,000 CHF excluding tax, and the waiting lists are constantly growing.

From Lapland to Switzerland
There was nothing preordained about Voutilainen’s career in fine watchmaking. Born in 1962, the young Kari spent the first 20 years of his life in Kemi, a small port and industrial town in Finnish Lapland which focused on the timber industry. Very early on he realised that he would not spend any longer than necessary at a school desk. “I preferred to tinker and carve pieces of wood, rather than pass my time with my nose in books,” he explains.


Swiss Made
Kari Voutilainen – The master watchmaker who came from the North

 Kari Voutilainen is driven by the desire to pass on his know-how to the younger generation of watchmakers swissinfo.ch /Samuel Jaberg
The Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, inventor and artisan, revered by collectors around the world, has just opened a new factory in the canton of Neuchâtel.

This content was published on September 6, 2021 - 09:00
September 6, 2021 - 09:00
7 minutes
Samuel Jaberg Céline Stegmüller
Other languages: 8
At the end of a bumpy, winding forest road on the border between canton Neuchâtel and France, the old Chapeau de Napoléon restaurant overlooks the Val-de-Travers region. At an altitude of almost 1,000 metres, high upon a mountain whose very form evokes the cocked hat of the famous French emperor, the view over the village of Fleurier and its renowned watchmaking companies Parmigiani, Chopard and Vaucher is spectacular.

External Content

In the parking lot in front of the building he has bought and completely renovated to accommodate his 30 employees, Kari Voutilainen welcomes us with a warm handshake. Wearing a grey polo shirt, eyeglass on his forehead, he is laid back and smiling. Although his name rings like a promise of a Scandinavian blizzard, Voutilainen does not come across as the cold and silent character often associated with northern Europeans.

Voutilainen could in some ways be described as the Lionel Messi of fine watchmaking. To his credit are no fewer than eight prizes at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, one of the most prestigious award ceremonies in the industry. His timepieces are snapped up around the globe by wealthy collectors, most notably in the United States, and at stratospheric prices. ‘Entry-level’ watches for his eponymous brand will set you back at least 75,000 CHF excluding tax, and the waiting lists are constantly growing.

From Lapland to Switzerland
There was nothing preordained about Voutilainen’s career in fine watchmaking. Born in 1962, the young Kari spent the first 20 years of his life in Kemi, a small port and industrial town in Finnish Lapland which focused on the timber industry. Very early on he realised that he would not spend any longer than necessary at a school desk. “I preferred to tinker and carve pieces of wood, rather than pass my time with my nose in books,” he explains.


Towards the end of compulsory schooling he completed a two-day internship in a watch repair shop run by a friend of his father. “It was a real eye-opener,” he recalls. “At that moment, I understood how people can become religious. It's difficult to explain, but since that day I have never felt like I’ve been working.” An ironic remark from someone who even today spends up to 80 hours a week, weekends included, in his workshop.

He convinced his father, a rigidly Protestant banker, to enrol him in the prestigious Tapiola watchmaking school near Helsinki. In the evening, after school, he tinkered with old clocks to acquire know-how with worn parts and, after landing his first job in a watch repair shop in Ylitornio, a small town on the Swedish border. His insatiable desire to learn led him to fly to Switzerland, the promised land of fine mechanical watchmaking.

The dream of independence
In 1989 he set his suitcases down for the first time in Neuchâtel, to take a course there at the Swiss watchmaking and development centre, Wostep. “It was the only place in the world that offered courses on complicated watches,” Voutilainen explained. Mechanical watchmaking was slowly regaining its initial nobility after the emergence of quartz technology in the 1970s.

Two meetings would change the course of Voutilainen’s destiny. The first was with Michel Parmigiani, who hired him in his workshop to restore beautiful watch pieces before founding his eponymous watch brand. Voutilainen would remain at Parmigiani for nearly 10 years. It was there he met the man who would become his mentor, Charles Meylan, who bestowed upon him all the secrets of fine watchmaking. “He was the one who encouraged me to make my first pocket watch outside of working hours, at night in my apartment,” Voutilainen recalls.

In 2002, after another three-year stint at Wostep but this time to teach courses on complicated watches, Voutilainen set out as an independent watchmaker, his lifelong dream. Three years later, he caused a sensation at the Basel Watch Fair by presenting the first watch to bear his name, a minute repeater striking the tens and not the quarters as is usually the case.

In order to meet growing demand and free up some time for his wife and two children, Voutilainen, hired other watchmakers and specialised personnel to assist him until he had created his own manufacture, capable of producing almost all the components of its creations with a clean design and meticulous finish.

Autonomy and local production
Since becoming co-owner of the two companies that manufacture the dials and cases of his watches, Voutilainen has afforded himself a luxury that no other master watchmaker can claim: almost total independence from his suppliers. “Today, we make everything ourselves except for three components of the watch movement: the barrel spring, the hairspring and the watch stones,” he explains. “This diversification has been the key to our success. During the pandemic, for example, we escaped the supply problems that hit almost the entire industry.”

And as for the watch accessories there is no question of bringing them in from Asia. He orders his bracelets from a local craftswoman who works for the biggest leather goods brands on the planet. The wooden boxes that host his works of art are made by a carpenter from the local valley.

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« Απάντηση #1 στις: Οκτώβριος 06, 2023, 17:23:02 μμ »
Konstantin Chaykin

The Konstantin Chaykin Manufacture is a Russian company, specializing in luxury class clocks and watches containing patented movements and complications. The head and founder, Konstantin Chaykin, is the only Russian watchmaker who is a member of the Académie Horlogére Des Createurs Indépendants and the author of numerous patented movements and complications

Konstantin Chaykin is a master watch maker from St. Petersburg. His table clock with a tourbillon made in 2004 is considered as the first and single Russian clock of the class Grande Complications.

Establishing his little studio a few years ago without any formal watch-making education, but with an engineering degree, Konstantin had no idea where his passion would take him. At the time, he was unable to find anyone sharing the same ideas, so he pursued his dream on his own, with support and help from his family and friends.

Looking through special literature on clocks, researching basic types of movements and time principles, Konstantin was already thinking of complicating them. Once the indicator of hour reserve, large date and various escapements were mastered, Konstantin felt he was getting closer to the creation of his own complicated mechanism. Today, with a few great projects behind him, he is now confident that the interest in horology has remained as strong as in the times of imperial Russia. With that in mind he is very serious about getting Russian clock-making traditions reinstated in all their glory.

Biography
Konstantin Yurjevich Chaykin was born in St. Petersburg in 1975.

In 1995 he graduated from St. Petersburg Telecommunication College. In 2000 he became interested in clockwork for the first time when he was one of the founders of a wholesale watch company. In 2003, using special literature collected step by step and gradually mastering the watchmaking skills Chaykin on his own created his first exclusive model – the gold watch.

In 2004 he constructed and made a unique clock with a tourbillon, it was the first Russian clock of ‘Grand Complication’ class. In 2006, a unique wristwatch with erotic scene automaton developed and produced.

In March, 2006 a new manual wind wristwatch caliber “TS1” fully developed and produced. In April 2006, a unique Moslem calendar clock developed and patented.

In May 2006, Konstantin Chaykin constructed and finished first Russian chronograph with power reserve indication function. In September 2006, a new unique clock with Moslem calendar was created.

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« Απάντηση #2 στις: Οκτώβριος 06, 2023, 17:26:17 μμ »
KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN – THE GREAT ASTRONOMICAL EASTER CLOCK

New generation Russian watch maker Konstantin Chaykin has made this extremely complicated astronomical Easter clock, which he believes should be considered as one of the most complicated timepieces ever created.

The entire clock mechanism consists of more than 700 details, all hand-made and featuring an amazing number of complications: a minute tourbillon countering gravity, equation of time, celestial map of the sky above St Petersburg, reserve indicator for 14 hours, moon phase indicator, and a set of automatically shifting perpetual calendars for day, date, month and year.

To make this clock even more special Konstantin believes he has developed something truly unique – a patented module for perpetual indication of Orthodox holidays. An integral part of this new complication is an Easter indicator, believed to be the most complicated arrow indicator mechanism in the world. The gear work is considerably more complex than that of a minute repeater.

It contains a number of preset differential gear transmissions put together with over 200 hand made details. Mathematical formulae making this type of mechanical calculation possible undoubtedly put this clock into the class of grand complications. With the work nearing its end after two and a half years Konstantin is planning to adorn the clock with domes and tiny crosses transforming this mechanical wonder into a small Russian temple.



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