Longines re-creates a classic 1947 watch made for the French Navy
The story begins in 1947 when the Marine Nationale asked Longines to supply a robust, accurate wristwatch for sailors. The outcome was Ref 5774, a waterproof 33.5mm-diameter piece (tiny compared to the received notion of a military watch) that went on to serve the navy’s crews, especially while diving in shallow waters. These pieces have long since held cult appeal, so it makes sense that Longines has chosen to revisit the design.
For the new Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale, unveiled today, the case has been expanded to 38.5mm – still relatively small by modern standards but large enough not to look peculiar. Aesthetically, it is otherwise a faithful re-creation. The words “FAB. SUISSE” appear on the opaline dial, just like the 5774; the seconds hand has the same counterweight. What’s more, the Super-LumiNova on the dial is brown to evoke an older timepiece – an effect carried into the cognac leather strap.
One thing that’s defiantly modern, however, is the movement: an automatic ETA-based L888.5 with silicon balance spring and 64-hour power reserve. That calibre is capable of operating a date complication but Longines has opted not to use the feature, the better to preserve the spirit of the original. After all, when you’re diving, you don’t need to know what date it is.
Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale will be available from October, £1,570. longines.com
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